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Originally Posted by Sharky
new developments. I did the tests with my multimeter. bear in mind that it is not very accurate so what matters is the relative result.
I connected the multimeter to the battery and got 13.5V. As I started the car it went down a bit and the climbed to 14.5 at idle speed. The odd thing was that when I accelerated it the voltage didn't change. The needle didn't even move one bit.No matter how fast the engine ran it kept on showing the same voltage.
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That is an indication that the voltage regulator is working but I would think that a higher voltage would be present. Check the book for alternator output specs. When you have some time, before you start the engine it might be a good idea to clean up the the `Ground' connections. The negative cable from the battery goes either to the engine block or the car body. Clean/scrape both ends and apply an dielectric/anti-corrosion compound/spray if you can find one. If not, use WD-40. A poor ground can cause all sorts of electrical problems that are unrelated to any diagnostic tests. It will also insure that your battery is properly charged.
Ask your mechanic friend if he has a `hygrometer'. It looks like an `eye-dropper' (glass tube, tapered at one end and a rubber squeeze bulb at the other). Inside are a group of small floating balls or a larger float. They will be color coded and read the specific gravity of your battery's electrolyte. Check each cell. They should be within 0.05 of each other - normal is ~1.28 (I think). The color coded marks (red/yellow/green) to indicate charge/condition. If one cell is significantly lower than the others, it is time for a new battery as the low cell is what is preventing charging to a higher voltage (15/16vdc) and possbly preventing fan from getting the full voltage when it needs it.
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Originally Posted by Sharky
I ended my trip and I didn't got the light during the rest of the trip. But when I went to check the water level it was full!! It hadn't lost a single drop of water. Came back and I didn't get the light again. What could this mean?
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Possibly a bad temp sensor. Best bet is to run the car while parked and have a real thermometer of some sort on the radiator or near where the temp sensor is located. Block off the radiator or possibly disconnect the fan somehow and see what the indicated actual temp shows when the light comes on. It is possible that the light comes on BEFORE the fan starts. That says the calibration is bad on the fan speed switch OR the sensor.
¡El oso es el jefe! The bear is the boss!