Recommissioning after a long break

[jrv_t644]

Guys

Its some time since i ran my old car - it had had 4 races since a rebuild if i remember correctly, but has now sat idle for a few years.

I'm intending to have a look at it in the next week or so -

Looking for some advice though:

How long do you think its likely to be able to put up with being left alone?

How much work is likely to be needed to get raceworthy again?

Am i likely going to need a proper rebuild?

Its a FF1600 btw

[Copperbottom]

Depends on how it's been stored,will definately need a fluid change,brakes checked over,new tyres (obvious I know) possibly new bushes (if any are rubber)and wiring/connection check.

[jrv_t644]

Its been in a dry garage - drained of most fluids (not oil)

Brakes i'll be dealing with.

Tyres are rock hard of course - i'll be looking for some used ones to get me going again.

To be honest my main concern is the engine - it was in excellent condition when it got put away, but marriage and starting home-ownership etc can get in the way of racing so its not been used for some time.

[GORDON STREETER]

As has been mentioned, it depends on if it was kept in a dry garage.If it hasn't got any white "powdery" coating on any exposed aluminium surfaces the chances are you may be OK. If the engine turns over easily then that's another bonus so put a little thin oil down the plug holes and turn the engine over by hand.
One of the main things people hardly ever do when laying a car up is drain the carburettor, as after a while petrol sort of "congeals" and is a sod to clean out (cellulose thinners is a good substitute for carb cleaner ). apart from that its just checking that everything is working as it should. With some new tyres and brake pads you will be away, you will of course have to bring it up to spec as far as safety features are concerned. Best of luck.

[jrv_t644]

Originally Posted by GORDON STREETER

As has been mentioned, it depends on if it was kept in a dry garage.If it hasn't got any white "powdery" coating on any exposed aluminium surfaces the chances are you may be OK.

This sounds promising, its looking good cosmetically.

Originally Posted by GORDON STREETER

If the engine turns over easily then that's another bonus so put a little thin oil down the plug holes and turn the engine over by hand.

That was my next plan.

Originally Posted by GORDON STREETER

One of the main things people hardly ever do when laying a car up is drain the carburettor, as after a while petrol sort of "congeals" and is a sod to clean out (cellulose thinners is a good substitute for carb cleaner ). apart from that its just checking that everything is working as it should.

I usually did that anyway, here's hoping i did it this time.


Many MANY thanks for the advice.

[Al Weyman]

Can you wind the oil pressure up prior to starting it? If you can thats always a good plan first.

[JohnD]

I changed all the fluids etc, on an engine that had been stored for ten+ years.
This was a rebuilt, unused Triumph six cylinder with cam shaft in block, no bearings, an old design that usually works well.
The cam shaft ate the block.
It might have been too strong valve springs, but another time I'd strip and rebuild such an engine, adding cam lube liberally to protect against initial start-up lubrication probs. Certainly, like Al, spin it up on the starter with no plugs until the oil pressure was registered.

John

[Al Weyman]

Well I would try to get the oil pressure up without spinning it up if possible. On the chevy you can use an old dizzy with the teeth cut off and an electric drill but simeone posted on quite a good pre-oiling device they designed in the tech section based on an old fire extinguisher that seemed to work.

[R59]

Isn't a FF dry sumped anyway? If so - whizz the oil pump over with a leccy drill until pressure comes up.

Personally, I'd tear it to bits, check/clean everything, then put it back together again. You can then be certain that it's "right".

[Al Weyman]

I guess it depends on your competance and tool box to undertake the job Rob.

[jrv_t644]

Originally Posted by JohnD

I changed all the fluids etc, on an engine that had been stored for ten+ years.
This was a rebuilt, unused Triumph six cylinder with cam shaft in block, no bearings, an old design that usually works well.
The cam shaft ate the block.
It might have been too strong valve springs, but another time I'd strip and rebuild such an engine, adding cam lube liberally to protect against initial start-up lubrication probs. Certainly, like Al, spin it up on the starter with no plugs until the oil pressure was registered.

John

That sounds terrifying.
Its been 9 years since it was run

[Al Weyman]

If it ran with no bearings it probably rusted itself to the block. Myself I would pull it apart as Rob said just to be sure.

[GORDON STREETER]

Originally Posted by R59

Isn't a FF dry sumped anyway? If so - whizz the oil pump over with a leccy drill until pressure comes up.

Presumably we are talking about a Kent engine ?
Yes It should be dry sumped, but it depends if its a 4 or 5 port pump, if its a 4 port you can but you won't get any oil pressure as the oil will pour out of the main gallery unless you blank it off somehow. However its easy enough to pressurise oil in the pipe with an air line, also whip the rocker cover off and pour a pint of oil down the push rod holes.

[Copperbottom]

Originally Posted by jrv_t644

That sounds terrifying.
Its been 9 years since it was run

Ahh yes but that was an old pre war triumph/standard design In my experience a kent engine will be fine,it's worth trying to prime the oil sytem,you can even do it through the oil pressure switch/guage take off using a grease gun or similar filled with oil to fill the galleries etc. The only problem that I've got with GSs' idea of an air line is that it introduces air into the dry sump system,is the pump side or front mounted by the way?

[jrv_t644]

Kent, yes - i'm not sure if its 4 or 5 port, is there an easy way to check (its so long i've forgotten alot, if i ever knew it)

THis is all very useful information guys, thank you very much.

Edit:

Ahh yes but that was an old pre war triumph/standard design In my experience a kent engine will be fine,it's worth trying to prime the oil sytem,you can even do it through the oil pressure switch/guage take off using a grease gun or similar filled with oil to fill the galleries etc. The only problem that I've got with GSs' idea of an air line is that it introduces air into the dry sump system,is the pump side or front mounted by the way?

Ahh this is more re-assuring, and tallies with advice i received from a friend a little while ago (but failed to act on at the time - funny how life gets in the way). Memory would suggest side mounted, but i'll get all the rubbish away from the car and have a look.

[GORDON STREETER]

Just fill the tank with oil, pour a drop down the push rod holes, take the plugs out and spin the engine until you get some oil pressure. It'll be fine, if you are fitting a new oil filter before you do this fill it with oil if it is sitting upright in the car.
Go on get it going it ain't rocket science.

[JamesH]

I bought a wreck 1300 Mk2 Escort for bits for a kitcar, was in someones field I think, stripped out inside filled with old wheels - not run for many years. Since I didn't need a working engine, I tried to start it anyway. It actually ran after about 1/2hr tinkering, ON THE PETROL THAT WAS IN THE TANK. In the end I stripped the engine down for the spare parts.

Amazing.

[jrv_t644]

Thanks for the advice everyone - i need not have worried, everything is in really very good condition, its like i was barely away.

[JimW]

OK, that's the car/engine, now what sort of shape are you in? Fit and ready to go, mechanics lined up, neck muscles in good order?

Seriously though, always good to see someone coming back into the sport. Which series are you going for?

Jim

[jrv_t644]

I'm in terrible shape - i can barely fit in

MonoKent is the plan.

[GORDON STREETER]

Originally Posted by jrv_t644

I'm in terrible shape - i can barely fit in

MonoKent is the plan.

Yes seats tend to shrink over the years