caster and its effects on the car

[tristancliffe]

Could be the rear is too stiff in roll, or running out of travel. Or too soft and falling over. Or worn bushes/bearings. It could be anything.

You need to be a lot more specific and have a lot more info about your car. Basically it could be almost anything. It too me a while to translate your post to English though, so maybe I mistranslated some of it.

[GORDON STREETER]

It's always a compromise regarding front/rear grip and sometimes depending how the car was put together it can be difficult to sort, normally a car will either handle really well on a fast corner or a slow one but not both brilliantly.
As tris has said we don't know enough about the car but softening the back "should" make it better, go testing and make big shock/spring rate changes (one at a time) so you can tell if it's better and try disconnecting the rear ARB (if it has one) I wouldn't play about with rear track too much but obviously make sure it is not towing out !!
Has the car always been like this ? you could try and run a thicker front ARB

[Trikes]

Hmmm thanks guys but I think I will muddle my way through this one.

[Notso Swift]

Proton is a pretty easy system to work with, basic Mitsubishi FWD chassis

Is an ex Proddie in Australia, I may know the car and how the driver set it up
Tail happy is generally faster on a circuit for FWD, taking load of the front tyres for turn, but on a hillclimb it isn't really desirable because there tends to be more variation and less time for the tyre to get warm

Personally I am a fan of toe in on the rear of FWD, especially strut rears, as you can "lean" on the back corner, but this is the opposite of what a lot will say
I combine this with limited droop on the inside wheel

[Trikes]

Hi Notso Swift. The Satria is a basic Mitsu Chassis etc but the Satria GTi is a different kettle of fish. Suspension Pick Up points are totally different to std Satria. 4 wheel Independent Suspension. All Lotus stuff. Along with body mods done by Lotus too. But your right. I had the Rear Wheel Alignment reset for more Toe-In (1.25mm per wheel from .6) and it's simply a different car - so much better now.......

[Notso Swift]

Good place to start. Do you drive it on the road, if not I would look for 2mm toe out on the front and -3deg camber (rear camber -1.5)

Presume you are on R tyres, which one?

[The Shrew]

Ok so here's my thoughts. I have no experience with real cars but I can set up a RC car very well ( principle is the same but you will have less adjustment )

Caster - More will give you more turn in but you will get less steering mid and corner exit.

I never found caster the best way to go because it always turns out to be kinda one thing or another. It either turns in or it washes out.

Roll centre ( you might not be able to change that ) Spring weight, damping and roll bars tend to change things in a more positive way.

Camber and toe in / out also changes things but you wont see as much of a change.

[Trikes]

Ok the seasons finished here. What I did at the last two Rounds was to disconnect the rear Roll Bar and I changed to WRX wheel alignment specs in the rear. Zero Toe and a little Camber. Immediate improvement. I reeled off four consecutive PB's before I hit a wall. 2.3 seconds found in all. One corner that had been my bogey spinning corner I'm now able to go through flat no lift. I change up a gear, 3rd to 4th and hold it flat. At the next Track I took 33kg out plus 4kg out of the Driver and found 2.2 seconds improvement, jumped the next guy in the Championship and finished equal 3rd in a 19 car field. I was one of three on road tyres, the rest were on Semi's. And hey get this, it's a five hour drive to the Track, it rained for four of those five hours then it rained for four hours at the Track. At the Presentation I won Best Presented - I thought 'ok, some one's on drugs', lol. Thanks guys for your assistance and suggestions. More to do for next season and works already commenced. A little more rear camber is needed judging by tyre temps plus new engine mounts, stiffer front bar, slightly bigger exhaust, Semi slicks (I'm going to Nankangs) and a better Seat, but one bridge at a time.......

[Notso Swift]

"Like" button
Sounds as if you have made the rear easier as opposed to faster, but guess what - confidence is worth more than any suspension tweek in any book, so go with that. When you hit limits then you can start to make the rear less settled, which will help the front
Step by step is the way to go