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Old 4 Jan 2009, 10:11 (Ref:2364898)   #1
Kilpuri
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Building brakes to track race car

Hello all,

We are building new track race car and I have been wondering the brakes. On preivous cars we have kept the original system so this is why basic knowledge is needed.

Our plan is to use original Honda MC (22,2mm = 7/8") and original rear disc brakes (30mm piston and 240mm disc).

We have new front rotors (Dia. 300mm) and 4 pot Wilwood forget Superlite calibers eguipped with 41,1 mm pistons. I chose the piston size such that it would match as well as possible with original 1 piston system where 54mm piston is used on 262mm rotor.

Car has ABS and everything currently installed, but they will be ripped off meaning that new brake pipes needs to be installed. Could somebody light up the piping? Is it just so simple that from front side MC "output" we can take one pipe which will be divided to front axel brakes and from "rear side" output we take other one which goes through adjustable pressure valve (eg. Wilwood) and at the rear end divided to both brakes? Can it be so simple? Note! Our plan is to remove the brake booster.

If not, how it should be performed such that we have as good brakes as possible when using Wilwood calibers.
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Old 4 Jan 2009, 10:47 (Ref:2364907)   #2
Tim Falce
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The pipe routing is that simple but I'm not sure your MC sizing will work out quite so easy.
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Old 4 Jan 2009, 12:58 (Ref:2364961)   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilpuri
Our plan is to use original Honda MC (22,2mm = 7/8")

Note! Our plan is to remove the brake booster.
Taking the booster/servo off will affect pedal feel. A lot of extra pedal effort will also be necessary for the same braking force.

I think that without a smaller master cylinder the pedal will feel very 'dead' making precise braking difficult. Reducing the size of the MC would improve that, or changing the brake pedal ratio if the MC has to remain that size.
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Old 4 Jan 2009, 13:18 (Ref:2364981)   #4
Kilpuri
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Originally Posted by phoenix
Taking the booster/servo off will affect pedal feel. A lot of extra pedal effort will also be necessary for the same braking force.

I think that without a smaller master cylinder the pedal will feel very 'dead' making precise braking difficult. Reducing the size of the MC would improve that, or changing the brake pedal ratio if the MC has to remain that size.
On our old car where we had 13/16" MC and 54mm 1 pot front brakes equipped with 285mm rotor and similar rear brakes as this new one, we noticed that when using good brake pads like Ferodo DS1.11 it was horrible to drive with booster, due to pretty easy lock up without any feel on the pedal. We did not tried with those pads without booster. With regular pads brakes were awful without booster, but quite good with it. But on our old car there was Hondas some sort pressure valve in the engine compartment. I am not sure its meaning. When everything worked we did not see any reason to change it.

Back to my original message. Actually due to this extremely simple piping is there a possibility that when using the adjustable pressure valve the brake pedal goes to rock hard, if the pressure valve is completely closed / almost closed?
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