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3 Dec 2012, 15:45 (Ref:3174645) | #1 | |
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Brake switch failure
Hi all
Has anyone else experienced brake failure due to the hydraulic stop lamp switch leaking/ failing? I'd be interested to hear if its an isolated thing or if other people a have had problems and which manufacturers switch it was Cheers Steve |
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3 Dec 2012, 20:39 (Ref:3174724) | #2 | |||
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Quote:
Maybe it was a Chinese copy of an old Lucas one that has been fitted ? |
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Balls of steel (knob of butter) They're Asking For Larkins. ( Proper beer) not you're Eurofizz crap. Hace más calor en España. Me han conocido a hablar un montón cojones! Send any cheques and cash to PO box 1 Lagos Nigeria Africa ! |
3 Dec 2012, 21:07 (Ref:3174735) | #3 | ||
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I've had this type fitted to the Jag since it was a baby and only had to change it when it stopped work, I've not known them to leak although I think dtype38 has had problems lately.
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3 Dec 2012, 21:32 (Ref:3174742) | #4 | ||
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Never had any problems on the MGs with this, either leaking or electrical failure. But there again I've always used second hand OE versions, not any modern repros.
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4 Dec 2012, 09:11 (Ref:3174910) | #5 | |
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I lean towards original, althoughh have fitted new. they're generally very reliable . . . we set up a master cylinder ina vice a while back to test a load. I think I managed to test one with compressed air as well. and we found out oil lamp switched are different!
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4 Dec 2012, 11:35 (Ref:3174964) | #6 | ||
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Pete Burton's Jag Mk1 crash at Mallory in October was caused by the brake light switch failing with total loss of brakes, but don't know if this was original equipment, NOS or new copy. Got me worried about my recent replacement now, which was almost certainly new copy.
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4 Dec 2012, 18:34 (Ref:3175081) | #7 | ||
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Although they are pretty reliable I would fit a mechanical one to rule out any possibility of a brake malfunction caused through a "ten bob" item.
Having had a complete brake failure on a race circuit (not a switch) it is certainly a brown trouser moment ! |
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Balls of steel (knob of butter) They're Asking For Larkins. ( Proper beer) not you're Eurofizz crap. Hace más calor en España. Me han conocido a hablar un montón cojones! Send any cheques and cash to PO box 1 Lagos Nigeria Africa ! |
4 Dec 2012, 21:42 (Ref:3175138) | #8 | |
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It was because of PB's failure I asked, I look after his cars, several other historics too. Several of which have hydraulic switches, everything from a Galaxie to a lotus and I don't want to see it happen again so just wanted to see if others have had problems.
I wouldn't want to see anyone hurt. I obviously know the make involved but don't want to name them until the reason for failure is proved Cheers Steve |
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4 Dec 2012, 22:55 (Ref:3175170) | #9 | ||
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I have seen them leak on road cars over the years when most vehicles had them as standard.
Also a road car didn't have the stress and constant hard braking back then that is encountered on the race track today. |
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Balls of steel (knob of butter) They're Asking For Larkins. ( Proper beer) not you're Eurofizz crap. Hace más calor en España. Me han conocido a hablar un montón cojones! Send any cheques and cash to PO box 1 Lagos Nigeria Africa ! |
5 Dec 2012, 07:38 (Ref:3175267) | #10 | ||
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Had one leak on a works Healey years ago,but it had been accidently clobbered with a hammer,other than that never heard of it happening for no reason. All 50s/60s BMC cars use them,so cant imagine this to be a worry.
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Living the dream,Chief instruktor and racing on the worlds best circuits-The Nordschleife and Spa.Getting to drive the worlds best cars-someone has to do it, so glad its me. |
5 Dec 2012, 08:54 (Ref:3175278) | #11 | ||
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Don't know the facts of Peter Burton's failure and switch, but got me wondering where new replacements are made, and whether that has anything to do with it?
I fitted new manufactured MGB calipers to the Gilbern few years ago, and couldn't get a decent pedal. Refitted the scruffy originals and perfect again. And we all know the problems with rotor arms, etc! Although can't help with any knowledge of failures, maybe a lesson for all of us to keep to original parts, or change to a non hydraulic switch. I understand that although the Jag being discussed was badly damaged, Peter was unhurt. Thank goodness for that, at least. |
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5 Dec 2012, 09:46 (Ref:3175302) | #12 | ||
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I thought historics alway used original parts Mike? Lol . Replaced the calipers on the B quite some time ago.Came from a remanufactures and were the best they had been in years.Sometimes I think its down to fluid.
Last edited by terence; 5 Dec 2012 at 09:51. |
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Living the dream,Chief instruktor and racing on the worlds best circuits-The Nordschleife and Spa.Getting to drive the worlds best cars-someone has to do it, so glad its me. |
14 Dec 2012, 16:02 (Ref:3178698) | #13 | ||
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As I work on old cars for a living - and it's mostly fifties & sixties british stuff - I come across a lot of these hydraulic brake switches. Over the years, I have come across a fair few that have ceased working (often on cars that have been laid up for years), but I don't recall seeing one leaking significantly - although I seem to remember one or two that were possibly 'damp' externally with weeping brake fluid.
Definitely never seen one fail catastrophically enough to cause total brake failure though! I'll wager it was a modern replacement, rather than an original Lucas item. The modern stuff, even if it comes in a 'genuine' Lucas box, is rarely as good as it was back in the day. Made in the far east, under licence I suppose - and the quality control just isn't there as it would have been when Lucas actually manufactured them way back. I'm not referring specifically to brake light switches either, but rather more generally to a lot of this electrical stuff that's available now for old cars - rotor arms, dizzy caps, condensers, flasher units, etc. The failure rate is shockingly high, and I often get parts that either don't work at all, straight out of the box, or last an unbelievably short space of time once fitted - for example, condensers failing after less than 100 miles! As others have advised - I'd avocate binning it if you can't find a proper 'period' genuine item and convert to a mechanical switch. |
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14 Dec 2012, 16:44 (Ref:3178708) | #14 | |
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I've just finished building one of my own engines and its got all new old stock parts which I've been saving . . . even new rocker arms . . . and TA-DA a made in Birmingham brand new Lucas points distributor, a brand new Ford/Burman oil pump as well, and genuine Ford cam followers
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20 Dec 2012, 20:35 (Ref:3180534) | #15 | |
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Strange but true
In fact, I just had a hydraulic failure of my brake switch. I recently replaced the existing switch due to electrical failure (ie the brake lights didn't work) and after only a few months, and very little occassion to use the brakes (ie just tooling around), the new switch began spurting fluid from between the plastic potting material and the body/electrical tabs. The switch was supplied by a reputable aftermarket specialist, was new and was marked Lucas SMB423. Maybe an isolated incident, but it happens! The replacement works fine, so it wasn't the piping or T fitting. A Google search brought me to this forum, because I wanted to see if I was the only one.
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21 Dec 2012, 07:23 (Ref:3180699) | #16 | |
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Timorfreda, I've sent you a PM, that's the same problem!
Cheers Steve |
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