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Old 6 Feb 2010, 00:32 (Ref:2627667)   #16
LuiggiSpeed
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guys you're so good I can't find anything to add up !!

I can only say by experience that whenever something doesn't make sense or you can't have the line yow want or the texture you want, it may be because there might be a small residue of an earlier object you have erased, or an opening in the loop that is barely visible, I like to zoom in a lot and examine bit by bit, sometimes I have to rotate around in order to find out where the funky bit is.

There are times when I cant paint stuff, and what I do is divide the whole thing into segments and isolate the problematic area, often times erasing a particular section and re-doing it solves the problem.
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Old 6 Feb 2010, 02:59 (Ref:2627715)   #17
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To make lines invisible like I do on hills and walls, I hide the lines. This can be done by right clicking the line and then selecting hide. Sometimes this ends up being time consuming but I think it adds a lot visually to the sketch.
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Old 6 Feb 2010, 22:42 (Ref:2628194)   #18
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To make lines invisible like I do on hills and walls, I hide the lines. This can be done by right clicking the line and then selecting hide. Sometimes this ends up being time consuming but I think it adds a lot visually to the sketch.
That's a new one to me. It would have cleaned up a lot of my designs where I tried to include landscaping.
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Old 16 Feb 2010, 04:39 (Ref:2634180)   #19
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How do I scale/dimension the track so that the length listed with I select a given segment is in units of the correct magnitude? That is, how do I scale/dimension the thing so it isn't telling me my track is 120ft long in total?

Also, is there a way to input how long you want to say the track is as a whole, or how long you want a specific segment to be so that the track is scaled off of that?
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Old 16 Feb 2010, 11:57 (Ref:2634342)   #20
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How do I scale/dimension the track so that the length listed with I select a given segment is in units of the correct magnitude? That is, how do I scale/dimension the thing so it isn't telling me my track is 120ft long in total?

Also, is there a way to input how long you want to say the track is as a whole, or how long you want a specific segment to be so that the track is scaled off of that?
I have not been able to "scale up" a track once it's complicated enough or have layers, it scales all funky but make sure when you start over you have a properly sized canvas by selecting tools/scale or typing "s" and grabbing a corner of your selected canvas, I always start out in a square, so that I can scale out before I get in much trouble.

As to the second topic, you can tell the track length if you measure the width, ( i.e. "12 meters") then select the asphalt portion and get the properties "area" then you divide area/width and there's your length down to the millimeter. Make sure you don't include pit lane or any other stuff so that it gives you the correct figure.

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Old 16 Feb 2010, 12:10 (Ref:2634352)   #21
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How do I scale/dimension the track so that the length listed with I select a given segment is in units of the correct magnitude? That is, how do I scale/dimension the thing so it isn't telling me my track is 120ft long in total?

Also, is there a way to input how long you want to say the track is as a whole, or how long you want a specific segment to be so that the track is scaled off of that?
Not quite sure I follow exactly what your asking, but the easiest way to draw it for me is to do so at full size rather than scale up.
On opening a new window, switch to top view and then "zoom out".
Then draw a rectangle you'll see it's size on the bottom right of the screen.
From that you'll know that you'll be able to fit a 2500ft (762m) straight or which ever size comfortably into that rectangle, the rest of the circuit follows on from their.
As mentioned previously you can either use the measure tool around the circuit from that point, easy for the straights, for the curves the default is 12 segments per curve so measure a middle segment and multiply. and then offset equally either side of that centre-line
Or as Luiggispeed suggests offset to your desired track width and use the area tool to calculate the length.
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Old 16 Feb 2010, 17:32 (Ref:2634515)   #22
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What I do is start off by zooming out a lot, and drawing the track centreline in 1:1 scale. I then use offset to make it actual width, and then use undo if there are any issues about corners being too tight.
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Old 16 Feb 2010, 23:15 (Ref:2634712)   #23
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Since I was only getting started, and just have the center line, I think scaling up should work in this case. I definitely don't want to redo all the corner geometry if I don't have to. However, I will keep this all in mind for all further designs in Sketch-Up. Thank you.
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Old 17 Feb 2010, 00:01 (Ref:2634736)   #24
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Scaling on the track center line has been successful. Now I have a lap of 4.007 miles, instead of 119', 9" 9/16.

If the inside of the figure formed by the circuit outline is NOT filling in automatically, does that always mean that there is a misalignment between some of the line segments used to form the figure? I know I used a lot of curve segments to make up some the individual turns, but if any of them aren't lining up with each other, or the straight lines, I can't tell on the figure I've drawn up. And since it's not filling in the shape of the track, I can't use the offset on the whole thing.
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Old 17 Feb 2010, 01:54 (Ref:2634756)   #25
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That is one of the issues that I have with the latest version of sketch up, because it automatically cuts any dissecting lines, it's really difficult to find, misalignments and newly created shapes from lines that you hadn't noticed crossed.

One way the off-set tool can still be used is by highlighting one section using the arrow, hold down the shift key and go around clicking on each section in turn increasing the length of the highlight. If nothing else you end up with the whole shape off-set-able if that's a word. But I've sometimes found the misalignments and extra crossovers/cut lines whilst doing that, that's causing the problem.
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Old 17 Feb 2010, 12:14 (Ref:2634957)   #26
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It's not only tracks for me, I have found SKTHP to be an excellent tool, I have roughly drawn this little custom job for our local luthier , to make it for me:



And some parts and little inventions I also like to have fun with, this program has helped me in a lot of ways.
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Old 17 Feb 2010, 15:15 (Ref:2635026)   #27
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i think I'll have to have another pair of eyes here look at it to try and find any misalignments.

I can use the offset tool on the curves, but I still can't seem to get uniform offset, and yes, I have been trying to make use of that little bar at the lower right to type in the measurements.

Perhaps I should ask this too, is anyone aware of any critical differences between the Mac and PC versions of this program?

P.S. Nice guitar, Luiggi.
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Old 17 Feb 2010, 19:47 (Ref:2635161)   #28
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Purist, if you want to get purely parallel lines, try and extend a line or two either side of the bit you want to be parallel which has already been offset, then drag do it's offset to the level of the line that's already offset.
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Old 18 Feb 2010, 22:17 (Ref:2635928)   #29
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How do you copy a certain section and paste it somewhere else?

I'm frustrated, haven't been able to find that, nor to rotate anything, other than model cars and stuff from the component file.
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Old 19 Feb 2010, 10:30 (Ref:2636178)   #30
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Has anyone had problems making increasing or decreasing width corners? I have. However due to the magic off sleep I thought of a way to get it right.

After you've made your single line drawing and offset the straights to the correct width you will have to find the point where the two lines of one side of the straight meet. Let's start on the inside.

Step 1:
Use the protractor and make two lines that are at 0 degrees with the the inside lines.

Step 2:
measure out the distance the ends of both straights are from the intersecting point then take the avaredge of the two and extend or shorten them to the correct length. Delete all lines unnecessecary

Step 3: Using the protractor you make two lines at the end of the straights at 90 degrees. They meet the centrepoint of the inside corner.

From hereon you can do it yourself. Be sure to repeat on the outside.
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