Seized Accelerator Cables.

[Tim Falce]

I fitted a twin accelerator cable set-up to my car at the beginning of the year which have been fine until last weekend. I noticed the pedal was quite heavy to push down but didn't really think much of it as it's a triple Weber set-up with a total of 8 return springs if you include the ones built into the carbs.
During my race the accelerator kept sticking open, not good as I also had a brake pipe failure on the rear line and the pedal was going to the floor on braking. On checking today one of the cables is jammed so I assume there's corrosion inside somewhere, would it be OK to spray some silicon or white grease down the end of the outer cable to keep it lubed or is this not a good idea?

[Mike Bell]

Originally Posted by Tim Falce

would it be OK to spray some silicon or white grease down the end of the outer cable to keep it lubed or is this not a good idea?

Tim, I personally avoid any grease in cables. It can 'drag' (slow return down) and also attract dirt. You really need to strip out the inner and find out what is happening. Even with all those return springs it aint something you want to risk. After stripping out, cleaning inner with wire wool and copious amounts of WD40 would be my way of treating it. If you want to lubricate use nothing thicker than '3in1'.

If it is corrosion, and presumably caused by water, it would also be useful to stop it happening in first place! I have used stainless steel cycle brake bowden before now for accelerator cable. It is certainly strong enough as the pull on a brake lever is far in excess of pedal operation, and it won't rust!

[Tim Falce]

I've replaced the cable and thrown the old one away, I just want to avoid it happening again.

I've just dissected the cable and it has a plastic inner sheath that the inner cable runs through, this seems to have twisted and kinked which is causing the problem, I'm now wondering how this has happened.

[Stacy]

Originally Posted by Tim Falce

I've replaced the cable and thrown the old one away, I just want to avoid it happening again.

I've just dissected the cable and it has a plastic inner sheath that the inner cable runs through, this seems to have twisted and kinked which is causing the problem, I'm now wondering how this has happened.

I had almost exactly the same thing earlier this year. It turned out to be heat from the turbo gradually melting the sheath and binding the cable. Not heat shielded.

S.

[GORDON STREETER]

Also make sure that the engine has a decent earth cable (and is tight) as the starter current when cranking will warm up the inner and start to melt the outer !