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14 Feb 2003, 04:37 (Ref:506101) | #26 | ||
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 706
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I'd recommend bouncing the car a bit between readings to take into account the potential for interference by dampers (damper adj can be a pain on some cars, requiring removal to adjust).
Unless you are running on an oval, preload in roll bars should be eliminated or they will effectively shift weight across the car. |
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"If a man could be crossed with a cat, it would improve the man but deteriorate the cat." Mark Twain |
14 Feb 2003, 08:51 (Ref:506212) | #27 | ||
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,332
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Yes, having the shocks turned down and/or jouncing the car around after making adjustments and before re-scaling the car is very important. My mates and I once spent a few hours trying to figure out why our changes weren't having the desired effects, only to figure out later we were getting bad scale readings because of the shocks. Same holds true for the anti-roll bar, if it isn't disconnected, you can get bad results.
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Juliette Bravo! Juliette Bravo!!!! |
1 Aug 2003, 19:14 (Ref:677419) | #28 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,229
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I've just bought some longacre scales and levellers (the trays the scales sit in with adjustable feet). How do you set the 4 scales up so not only are they level, but the same height in relation to each other.
I have just had a bit of a play levelling the pads, but getting them all the same height above sea level seems a nightmare. Any ideas? |
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2 Aug 2003, 08:27 (Ref:677708) | #29 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,537
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With a long straight 'rule' - like a 10 ft piece of aluminium angle or, even better, T-profile and a quality spirit level.
Use the spirit level to get each pad level individually to start and then use the ally and the spirit level to get them all level together. If you always do it in the same place, mark the floor and then it should be pretty straightforward to put the stuff back each time and have a quick check prior to use. |
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