Thanks Gordon
Connecting a battery between the + terminal on the coil and earth doesnt seem to make any difference.
I'm a bit confused about your reference to the LT leads being the wrong way round (I'm a bit dim!). The ignition switch lead is on the +ve terminal, the -ve terminal has a feed to the points and another to the rev counter. There are no other leads to the coil (other than HT of course).
The coil is now back to the original, I had swapped it for a known good alternative but that didn't do any good. I don't have a suitable meter to measure Ohms so I can't test the coil at the moment but I will rectify that omission at the weekend...
The thing that really confuses me is that, with the points closed, the voltage at the + terminal (ignition on) is 9 volts, cranking drops that to about 7 volts, however if I remove the wire from the +ve terminal of the coil and take the voltage reading from the end of the wire it's 12+ volts. Why should there be a voltage drop simply by hooking the lucar back on to the coil terminal?
I did wonder if I had a ballast resistor but, if that was the case, I would have expected two wires to the +ve terminal, the ballasted one for normal running and a bypass for starting. Also if I had a ballast resistor shouldn't I expect to see an increase in voltage when cranking rather than a drop?
Fuel was new on Tuesday....
Finally, with the feed from the ignition switch disconnected from the coil end, as mentioned, I am getting 12+ volts so does that not suggest that the ignition switch is Ok?
Thanks again for the help
Perplexed
