[Diecast/Models] BBR Audi Sebring 99

[Dr. Austin]

Latest from the bench is the 99 Sebring Audi R-8. Once again, another BBR models that i am sad to finish. It was so much fun that I was actually sorry when it was done. You open the box, marvel at how well everything fits, and POW, it's done!

This one was particularly easy as it has a matt finish, so all that work on the gloss isn't necessary. The decal scheme is pretty simple, so the hard part was, as always for me, the headlight covers.

I think this is a handsome car, as LMP's go, and it is a shame they didn't do a nice graphics job on it. They modified the car for LeMans and added some dashes of silver, but the big agressive spoiler was gone and that made it a little less attractive for me. Still, I liked the LeMand car too, but it was a little tricker to build with it's two tone paint and masking.

[Diabando]

That looks just great

As avid die-cast model collectors, we decided it was about time we tried to make one ourselves....got the model we liked, managed to find all the extra bits...then we found out how complex it can all get - like little files for cutting plastic - all sorts of things!
(turns out we purchased a very difficult one, for a "first go")

Still, we shall try and do this! And after viewing the above, I am even more determined!

is it all really as hard as it seems???

[Dr. Austin]

[i]Originally posted by Diabando

is it all really as hard as it seems??? [/B]

Everything is hard when you don't know how! I suggest if you are going to build a model, you try to find a Starter 908/3, preferrably one like the #22 Nurburgring 70 car. It was just plain white with very few decals and no glass. The glass is the hard part for me because I have so much trouble seeing it. Decals are a snap once you get a good builder to show you a couple of tricks. The worst part of 1/43 for the new builder is the instructions are really lame, even on a BBR, but they are still the best. They just expect you to know how to do everything and half the time the reference they give you for decal placement are awful.

this is why I am such a nut for scrounging all the photos I can get my hands on.

But it is not difficult once you have someone who knows what he is doing to give you a few pointers. And you can't be afraid to screw one up once in awhile. Hell, sometimes I get so furious with them that I just pick up a big hammer and SMACK!!! No more problem. I've had some models be such a royal pain that the first thing I do when I get set up to work on it is to get out the hammer, just in case.

If more people are interested, i might do a complete construction article from box to showcase. It will be alot of work and alot of pictures, but if there is enough interest, it might be fun.

[Diabando]

We are going to try and do the model we purchased - even if it is difficult for starters! We may as well give it a go

Well, I am interested!!

Lets see who else might want to see this, and if nobody else shows interest, perhaps you could e-mail with the installments?

Cheers,
Jen

[TimD]

I was just about to post my interest in this too!

Doc, how are you with photo-etch? That's my one bugbear - especially in forming venturi and wings. I'd be keen to learn from a master.

I daresay one ought to plan the model to be done as an example of how to tackle all of the tricky techniques one is liable to come across.

And for race car enthusiasts I would suggest that these would be:

Photo-etch - bending and shaping while keeping the straight bits straight!

Decalling - especially the use of Decasol and working with curves

Paint preparation - Every modeller could use a refresher on that

Window and lens fitting - without visible glue residue.


I'd be an avid reader.

Jen, what's the type and scale of model that you're working on at the moment? From the mention of plastic files, should I guess that it's a 1/24th or 1/12th scale? Doc Austin's speciality - and mine for that matter - is 1/43rd scale resin and metal, but most of the techniques will still be applicable to a plastic based kit.

[Dr. Austin]

Which model did you purchase? I hope it is a BBR or Marsh. they are superb. Also, have you done any plastic models? They are good to build, too. The techniques for working with the two kinds of kits are different, so i just stick to resin because i know how to work with it best. I've done plenty of plastic, though, but generally, I like 1/43 scale and mostly all that is available is resin or metal, I do not like metal at all, but there are others who love it.

While clearing out the camera, I ashamedly realized that the first picture was horribly out of focus. I try to make amends with a good one. Sorry about that. I am a modeller, not a photographer.

[TimD]

Hey, Doc - reading about your hammer principle for the kits that don't work out - I have a different plan for failed projects.

I'm working on motorising them. AFX slot car chassis and motors adapted to take a 43rd resin shell means a potential new lease of life for a beastie that didn't make the grade for the display case.

You don't need a crystal clear paintjob or a perfect set of decals when you're doing a scale speed of 150mph across the carpet. And it beats taking a hammer to a $30 kit, after all.

My next project is how to adapt track to take the larger scale of cars....

[iucrmh]

For those about to start building kits, prepare for a serious addiction. Like the good Doctor, I find the lens covers a little tricky, but have some vac-form scissors made by Marsh Models which certainly help (curved on the end but also able to cut straight). If painting a kit scares you then a prepainted kit by the likes of JPS might me a good introduction.

There are also some good building articles at http://www.amazing43.com and how to guides at http://www.grandprixmodels.com/newspages/help.htm

Enjoy.....