Bending Lexan to make windows, is it a DIY job.

[Al Weyman]

I would like to replace the windows with plastic on my Camaro 3rd Gen car in particular the huge rear glass hatch that is incredibly heavy. I can get the materials OK from my signmaker suppliers and had researched that Lexan was the way to go. I have also read it is possible to apply heat with a heat gun to bend the stuff. But what about this rear hatch, would it be possible to do this with something of this size using the original glass as a puck? Failing this can anyone recommend a UK company that could take this on as I could buy from the US but the shipping will be horrendous.

[JohnD]

Al,
I've been researching this on the 'Net, to make headlamp covers with double curvature. For that, Perspex will be fine and this site looks useful: http://www.bayplastics.co.uk/Perspex...20Handbook.pdf.

Other sites have suggested that Lexan (polycarbonate) is much softer and easier to bend than Perspex. Certainly, I've used polyc. for a tailgate with a small amount of curve in the window. Starting on the middle, working out using predilled holes and 4mm bolts, and bedding the polyc. onto previously stuck on closed cell foam strip, worked very well.

Is your Camaro the model with the rear window that curves right around to the C-posts? How much double curvature has that? If almost single curve, you could do it, IMHO. Using the old glass as a buck would be fraught, again IMHO, as the glass too would need to be heated evenly, or risk shattering it. I plan to make wood and plaster bucks for my headlights, and put them and the perspex in the oven, when 'er indoors is out - but you can't do that with a tailgate window!
John

[Al Weyman]

Thanks John, no it is not that one, that would be easy(er) this is the monster from 82 to 91 the whole hatch is basically glass with a little deck lid at the back. A guy I see on the circuits with a Firebird which is a very similair model had one done but he was not very approachable, probably thought I was a typical 'Billie' (is that the word for race spectators?).

[JohnD]

I call them Supporters!
Though for most of the meetings I go to, they would be 'Marshals'.

What a Wally, if he has that attitude.
Go on, ask him, he can only say, "B-O"

John

PS Your Camaro like this? http://www.musclecarclub.com/musclec...maro-1987b.jpg

[Al Weyman]

Yes that is the one John.

I was trying (?) to be a little clever with the Billy comment refering to another thread and I do actually very much agree with you and they are to be looked after, maybe the guy was just having a bad day but seeing as his and mine are only 3rd gen F Body cars road raced overhere I thought he may have been a bit more interested, takes all sorts I guess.

[dtype38]

Dunno if its any help, but these people http://www.plastics4performance.co.uk/pro_windows.asp specialise in body kits but also do perpex window kits. They don't have your car listed, but they might know someone who does

[Al Weyman]

Thanks Dtype38, I have actually emailed them by coincidence and am awaiting a reply. As I say I can get them from the US but they are a bulky old item and I guess the freight would be high but may be down to that or just running over 200 kgs heavier than I need to as I want to change the doors to fiberglass as well.

[dtype38]

I suspect you have similar weight issues to the guys who run XJS cars in the Jaguar series. They have a min weight of 1250kg (6cyl) or 1350kg (12cyl). The cars start in the region of 1800kg on the road, so there's lots of scope, but finding that last 100-200kg needs some real thougth. Perspex/Lexan screens are a must, but for door skins, many go for using the outer steel skin with the barest hint of the frame. Just enough to hold the hinges and catch. I'm told this is an easier way to go, and as light as, fibreglass. The series calls for existing hinge and catch mountings, but when you've just got a skin to hold up, you only really need half of each hinge

[Al Weyman]

These cars are lighter believe it or not than the XJS. It is currently all steel and glass and weighs in at under 1300kgs. I recon the doors and glass would add up to 180kgs to 200kgs as the rear hatch alone is over 50kgs! Ideally I would like to keep the original doors and hatch intact and store so the car could be converted back to ModProd spec in a matter of hours.

[graham bahr]

polycarb is so tough that theres no reason you shouldn't given enough clamps clamp it to an existing glass screen and cut round it but 0.25" away from th eglass itself and drill screw it to the rear hatch frame, done that a couple of times my self, when fitting localised heating with a heat gun will make it a bit easier, although you have to heat from the right side to get it to bend in the correct direction

[StephenRae]

Polycarbonate absorbes moisture, if you only want a gentle curve which can be achieved with a small amount of heat perhaps on one side it should be OK. If you are after serious curvature then cut to size and then find a way to warm it progressively over a week or two to dry it completely, otherwise when it is heated enough for it to 'drape' around the original it will be full of bubbles!

[Alan Raine]

Originally Posted by StephenRae

otherwise when it is heated enough for it to 'drape' around the original it will be full of bubbles!

Will help with the 'AERO' though.

Sorry sad joke

Mint or plain?

[Al Weyman]

I am in the signgame so may order a sheet and have a play, I think I will make a paper template and cut the material to size and try a bit of gentle heat to bend.

Graham is there anything in the TRC rules or general rules that state the hatch has to open as it would be much better if screwed down.

[graham bahr]

Al theres nothing in the TRC rules with regards to if it has to open or not

[Al Weyman]

Thanks Graham.