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18 Jul 2007, 10:13 (Ref:1966415) | #1 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 262
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Choosing a Radiator
Guys the Corolla speedway car that we race here in the Junior Class has a six cylinder 3.0 lt VN Commodore Radiator in it and it takes too long to warm up. So is there a magic formula for working out radiator size? Engine is 1200cc 3k........trikes
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18 Jul 2007, 11:28 (Ref:1966460) | #2 | ||
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You might just block off sections of the radiator with duct tape until you get the surafce area you're looking for. They you'll be armed with the information on a size before you sort out another one.
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18 Jul 2007, 11:32 (Ref:1966464) | #3 | |
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Does the engine have a thermostat?
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18 Jul 2007, 20:49 (Ref:1966895) | #4 | |||
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Quote:
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18 Jul 2007, 22:04 (Ref:1966954) | #5 | ||
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You will still get some cooling effect through heat transfer even without direct airflow, but this would let you come closer to figuing out how much cooling you need without just purchasing another radiator.
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19 Jul 2007, 12:26 (Ref:1967389) | #6 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 262
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Yeah it runs a 90 degree thermostat. We're in the off season at present so it's vertually impossible to run the car. I thought there may be a rough rule of thumb guide I could use to get the engine warming up quicker. 20 minutes in the pits and the temp guage hardly moves off the bottom (in summer). On the dyno it wouldn't warm at all. I could put my hand on the engine and it was only luke warm after five runs gradually building up on each. Don't reckon the oil is coming up to operating temperature by a fair margin. Dyno man said take it away and put a smaller rad in. Darn frustrating this..........
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19 Jul 2007, 13:30 (Ref:1967454) | #7 | ||
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What are you using for fuel? Sounds like the same problems I have had racing with methanol. You going to start to get a lot of condensation on the inside of your valve covers and start fouling your oil if you can't get the engine temp up. Have you diconnected the radiator fan?
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19 Jul 2007, 19:57 (Ref:1967778) | #8 | ||
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Not sure if I'm missing something here Trikes, but surely if you're running a thermostat then the size of your rad should have nothing to do with how long it takes to warm up. The stat should block the rad off and run all of the pump water through the bypass until it gets to the stat temp. If it isn't then make sure the stat isn't bypassing or try blocking the air bleed in it (if there is one).
If its on full recirculation of water and it still isn't getting up to temp then the problem is elsewhere and you might need to consider insulating some of the outer surfaces or external water pipes. Silly question... but you are measuring the temp at the block and not at the rad? Last edited by dtype38; 19 Jul 2007 at 20:42. |
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20 Jul 2007, 00:51 (Ref:1967933) | #9 | ||
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I seem to remember you talking about this car before, and isn't the motor pretty standard? (due to the rules)
If so, and thinking logically, why would you need a rad that is much bigger than standard? Further bonus, I will bet it weighs less, even if the rad is the same taking out 3 litres of water will help. A good clean standard would be where I would start. If you have problems first place to look at is improving the ducting, then look at water wetter, THEN look at replacing the rad with a SLIGHTLY larger unit. May be something like those Mk1 Golf ones that are a nice light Aluminium. After all, the orginal was designed to run in all conditions, while half blocked with sludge and only half full of water. You’re in Tassie, so your weather is mild, even in the height of summer it doesn't really get more than 30 deg. |
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20 Jul 2007, 10:46 (Ref:1968235) | #10 | |
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D type measuring water temp in the front of the head (std). The young driver said the temp drops as soon as she goes out the gate from the dummy grid. Not so Swift ordered a brand new std (copper) rad this morning and yes we always use ww (amazing stuff). The radiator position will be altered to 90 degrees from where it is. Presently it's where the left rear passenger would normally sit. As for having a VN Commodore radiator fitted it's what was in the car when we purchased it. Evidently this engine is far from std internally and $5000 professionally built and won a Victorian Speedway Title two years back. Gone to a copper rad as the alloy ones get too beat up. Also I'm chasing left side weight in this car. The VN one was too centralized. A thermo fan provides the cooling because it got to 40degrees five times last summer..........trikes
Last edited by trikesrule; 20 Jul 2007 at 10:49. |
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20 Jul 2007, 17:22 (Ref:1968488) | #11 | ||
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Trikes the very fact that the temp drops as soon as the car moves indicates to me that the thermostat isn't working. I always build a race car with a bigger rad and blank it off, so when the ambient temp is high I can pull off a bit of tank tape. I don't run a thermostat but run the the outer restictor ring and blank off the bypass, and have never had any temp problems winter or summer.
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21 Jul 2007, 15:06 (Ref:1969172) | #12 | ||
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Agree with Gordon, if the engine temp drops below the thermostat setting when you start moving, then it aint doing its job. Without knowing system layout and pump type, hard to comment, but check the pump isn't overcoming the thermostat spring and opening it "against its will". :-)
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