Lighter Flywheel and racing clutches

Redracer77 · 8 Jun 2007, 12:12 (Ref:1932219)

I am currently converting a zetec formula ford to Class A F4. Our regs state that we are free to do what we want with the flywheel and clutch.

I would like to take some weight off the fly wheel and maybe go for a 7.5in racing clutch. Can anybody recommend anyone that can do that for me and which clutch should we buy?

It is for a Van Diemen RF01 chassis and Zetec 1.8l engine.

Redracer

GORDON STREETER · 8 Jun 2007, 12:50 (Ref:1932252)

If you really can do "what you want" to the flywheel I would recomend that you buy a purpose made one and don't lighten the original. If you get the iron one lightened please make shure that its done by a competent person

AU N EGL · 8 Jun 2007, 12:53 (Ref:1932255)

Quote:

Originally Posted by GORDON STREETER

If you really can do "what you want" to the flywheel I would recomend that you buy a purpose made one and don't lighten the original. If you get the iron one lightened please make shure that its done by a competent person

I agree with Gordon on this.

Al Weyman · 8 Jun 2007, 19:22 (Ref:1932574)

One of the giys in modprods had a lightened flywheel explode on his Opel Ascona, the car erupted in a spectacular fireball as the flywheel ripped through the oil cooler lines then smashed into the underside of the bonnet tearing a hige gash in the bonnet and lifting it about 6 inchs off the hinges and this was a steel bonnet. Fortunately the oil fire was soon extinguised by the marshalls and the car survived but the driver was extremelly luck not to loose a foot or even a leg. Don't lighten a standard cast flywheel!

trikesrule · 8 Jun 2007, 22:32 (Ref:1932741)

We use only use alloy flywheels in our speedway cars with rpm clutchs - awsome absolutely awsome the way engine(s) pull out of the corners.....trikes

rcarr · 9 Jun 2007, 00:06 (Ref:1932791)

I've heard about flywheel bolts sheering on a Mallock. Of course, the majority of Mallocks are front engined, the flywheel came off and sawed through the guys leg! Now all Mallocks are fitted with a 1/4 inch thick steel plate bolted to the chassis right next to the flywheel and bellhousing.

Al Weyman · 9 Jun 2007, 10:18 (Ref:1933032)

Yeah Lakewood do chevy steel bell housings, I have one on a car I am renovating or if its weight consideration a ballistic blanket to wrap around the original alloy one, I think they are mandatory in drag racing,.

**Tim Falce** · 9 Jun 2007, 10:27 (Ref:1933035)

I've often thought about this, I have a lightened standard Jaguar flywheel and wondered if I should have some form of protection around the chassis where the bell housing is. The MSA recommend a restraint or steel plates for the propshaft but nothing is mentioned for flywheel or bell housing area.

GORDON STREETER · 9 Jun 2007, 19:47 (Ref:1933418)

One of my sponsors had a rwd Escort in his workshop with a lightened flywheel. After being tuned it was revved up and the flwheel came out of the side of the car and embedded itself in the breeze block wall. Luckily no one was hurt but it could easily have killed someone !
And some of us remember the Mustang flywheel that hit the bridge at Mallory Park !!

Al Weyman · 9 Jun 2007, 20:17 (Ref:1933433)

Wow, get that scatter blanket Tim it may save yer life!

GORDON STREETER · 9 Jun 2007, 21:10 (Ref:1933480)

On my last engine rebuild I found a crack starting from one of the boss bolt holes through to the steel insert for the clutch . This was a genuine purpose built aluminium flywheel dowelled and loctite'd on . So they have a life as well.
I think the steel one's with windows may fair better.

Al Weyman · 9 Jun 2007, 21:34 (Ref:1933501)

Yes but I try to keep the revs a tad below 10,000rpm!:-)

AU N EGL · 9 Jun 2007, 23:05 (Ref:1933560)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Al Weyman

Yes but I try to keep the revs a tad below 10,000rpm!:-)

10,000 ??? dang Al you ruing a Nascar engine??

My rev limiter is 7200 on my LS6

zefarelly · 14 Jun 2007, 09:38 (Ref:1936711)

Gordens shopping car does 10k

I stick to a solid steel flywheel, its legal, and safe, 4 bolts and 4 dowels, but I only spin to vicar/district nurse revs, about 8k!

**dtype38** · 14 Jun 2007, 15:34 (Ref:1936902)

A glitch in the 10-10ths system lost a few posts from this and other threads. Sorry for the inconvenience and normal service is resumed and all that.....

And.... what I'd already posted above and got lost was...

I used to have a lightened standard flywheel and 9 1/2" cluch on my car. I then went to a competition flywheel purpose made to take a standard 7 1/4" racing clutch (mine's an AP twin plate). Anyway, the whole thing seems pretty bullet proof and the difference it's made to the pickup and slowdown of the engine has been quite dramatic. So much so I've had to relearn toe-and-heeling. But that's a small price to pay for the improved acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear. For info, I dropped the clutch/flywheel assy from 20kg to 10kg. And while I remember, if you go to a full race clutch, don't try to slip it more than once or twice an hour...

Here's a picture of my new flywheel http://www.bighealey.co.uk/largepic....678d_large.JPG I also have their "half thickness" ring-gear fitted, so not only is it a lot lighter, but the weight is concentrated closer to the centre for even further reduced inertia.

Redracer77 · 17 Jun 2007, 13:35 (Ref:1939914)

scholar engines have done me a lightend steel flywheel in the end. The standard formula ford fly wheel is 7.5kgs I think and this one is 3.9kgs. I have also gone for a 7.25 alloy AP racing clutch which again is 2.8kg. So I have saved about 7.3kgs from a standard formula ford flywheel and clutch. It will be interesting to see what the difference is!!

zefarelly · 22 Jun 2007, 08:14 (Ref:1943984)

thats not a flwheel its a Bugatti road rim !

I have a 7 1/4" clutch on the shelf although until now I've been using the std Twin cam 8" unit with a 4 paddle friction plate, can't say I do many hill starts but its over 2 years old and no measurable wear last winter.

Al Weyman · 22 Jun 2007, 08:26 (Ref:1943993)

My Tilton triple plate is bulking again and I will have to pull it out for a look at the weekend may have got some oil on it not sure it had new drive plates in it not so long ago. Heavy job on yer own!

zefarelly · 22 Jun 2007, 08:54 (Ref:1944020)

thats why I put ally bell housing and tail shaft on my xmas list a few years ago . . .its a simple one man job getting the gearbox off !

boyracer · 22 Jun 2007, 14:49 (Ref:1944317)

For every modified flywheel that's exploded there's another 99 that are fine.
We've undertaken serious lightening of cast flywheels and never had a drama. Billet is of course a better way to go, but as long as you're realisitic about the mods it can be achieved safely.
We've also had off-the-shelf billet flywheels that have been so thin that the clutch never wore square as the pressure plate distorted the flywheel like a bellville washer.

Al Weyman · 22 Jun 2007, 19:19 (Ref:1944512)

Quote:

Originally Posted by zefarelly

thats why I put ally bell housing and tail shaft on my xmas list a few years ago . . .its a simple one man job getting the gearbox off !

Actually Zef its a Muncie and lighter than a Ford bix being 100% Alloy including the case, the bell housing and tailshaft its just me getting a bit past it lying on me back dragging boxes out if I'm honest but come the weekend I will no doubt drop it out and sort it.

THR · 24 Jun 2007, 20:28 (Ref:1945712)

also, id add, its better to dowel the fly wheel to the crankshaft so that it doesnt move and wear the bolts out. i know VWs dont have dowelled flywheels, and when u bang the clutch a bit they move and eventually fall off.
fine in normal running to do this just with the bolts holding it on, but not for extreme racing.
also use some blue loctite to hold the bolts in, or the bolts you get with the flywheel with the nyloc type stuff on them so they dont fall out.

Al Weyman · 24 Jun 2007, 20:40 (Ref:1945723)

I may be getting on but still managed to pull the Muncie, free up the sticking lightweight triple plate Tilton and get it all back together again all on me own this afternoon, not bad eh even if I say so myself, mind you I am a bit cream crackered now!

morrisnutter · 27 Jun 2007, 10:11 (Ref:1947981)

What steel should you use for the dowels? I'm going to have to make some for the engine I'm putting together soon, so might as well get it right!

amier · 27 Jun 2007, 18:08 (Ref:1948316)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhLDA...elated&search=

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