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Old 14 Feb 2019, 07:17 (Ref:3884030)   #1
Join Date: Jan 2014
Australia Hobart
Posts: 46
Trikes should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
Strut Flex???

I have a Honda Integra DC5 Type R. This a full house race car. It's won multiple Australian and State Championships as well it's won Time Attack and Super Sprint Events in it's Class and has been right up there Outright. So it's no Slouch! I'm running one season old Semi Yokohoma Slicks. Spring Rates are 16 fronts with 20's rear. Has one season old Yellow Speed Coil Overs. Has awesome Endless Brakes, Strut Braces and the car is Caged.

The problem I'm having is what I thought to be Torque Steer but it appears to be Strut Flex. It only does scary front end stuff at speed on road camber changes. If that happens on a bend it can get real interesting.

The car has spun twice in a straight line! With multiple other close shaves.

Been on the Wheel Alignment Machine many times. Set front end at 3 1/4 degrees Camber with 2 degrees Caster. Toe out is 2mm total. We have tried varying settings to no avail. 30mm Spacers against no Spacers makes no difference. Corner weights are set at 51.4% forward. Throttle - steady increase works - definitely no stomping at speed. Crest's and the middle to the edge of the road / track camber changes are the worst. But here's something of note - last season went to a hill climb 31 corners in 1.89 kilometres. Speeds never went over 100kmh /60mph. Track has lots of up and down and the car was awesome. Won there even though I broke the Shifter and was stuck in 3rd gear for all the runs. I could feel the suspension working, compressing unloading very evenly across the front. Only one corner with a Camber change in it and yes the car was a handful there.

I've tried two different sets of C/O's. The car came with Zeals / Hyperco Springs and now it has Yellow Speeds in the front with Zeal / Hyperco out back. This gives the best of the bad bunch of things tried.

Is there such a thing as a Strut Stiffener? Should I try softer Spring Rates? The Rates are the only thing that's stayed the same right through this. Have checked multiple times for worn components and chassis cracks.

For this season I've just added 80hp and have another 80 waiting to go in if I can sort this problem. The more power I put in the worse it gets.

Idea's? Suggestions?
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Old 14 Feb 2019, 15:46 (Ref:3884191)   #2
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 15
sambeeb should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
can I ask what diff is in it? I have a torsen style Wavetrac in my FWDer and I've definitely found that switch backs, uneven surfaces and undulating surfaces can cause it to torque switch left to right across the front wheels and exacerbate the torque steer. On smooth tracks I have no such problems.

How much rear toe out are you running?

I saw in another post of yours that you had bump steer dramas and you either raised the rack or lowered the tie rods (or both) to get the arms level again. Are you seeing less toe change when they pull down on the cars front end when its up on the rig now.

Last edited by sambeeb; 14 Feb 2019 at 16:01.
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Old 24 Aug 2019, 08:28 (Ref:3923971)   #3
Join Date: Jan 2014
Australia Hobart
Posts: 46
Trikes should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid

Ok much has been learned about the dreaded DC5.

Firstly a chap in North America (SHG) happened upon my gripes on my FB Page and said he had a 'fix'. Said he knew exactly what was going on.

He explained that it is a very common problem with DC5's and a couple of other Honda's which have the Trailing Arms linking up ahead and in the centre of the Rack. The Trailing Arms mount on a alloy block and this has two bolts which go through a plastic thingy and bolts to the Rack.

The Factory plastic spacer is the culprit!!!

So I replaced it with the SHG Delrin Spacer and hey presto all problems disappeared - well almost. I like most other people had looked at the dreadful angle of the Trailing Arms and thought that can't be right so I spaced them up until they were level. This actually made things much worse. The correct angle of the Arms is about 7 degree's down to the centre. Evan (SHG) told me to get a Tegiwa Rack Raiser as my DC5 is lowered about 40mm and if your Arms are at the std angle it will steer like a problem child.

Tegiwa Rack Raiser arrived. Put the SHG Delrin Spacer in behind the Rack Raiser, set the Trailing Arms at 7 degrees.
One more thing you will run out of Toe Adjustment badly when you lower a DC5. The fix is a set of Hard Race Triple Adjustable Steering Arms.

Stuck the car back on the Wheel Aligner, hit the track and preceded to have endless win after win after win. I kid you not. With just a 2.2 na engine and c/r box this car is always in the top couple of cars Outright.

Who'd have thought! After chasing my tail for ages terrorizing Turbo AWD cars is the norm. (Not had NA V8's even go close to me).

Recently I raced a Super Sprint day where from Standing Starts a group of 4 cars race against the clock. I was against an EVO, a GTR Nissan and a hot as heck EVO race car. I disposed of the EVO R/C off the Line and was up with the GTR but he shut the door. For three laps the turbo cars got away from me down the straights but I had to get out of the throttle in the corners least I run into their rears. Anyway the Officials noticed they were getting in my way and sent me out in the next group where I jumped ahead early and preceded to set FTD (2.4 seconds faster than the first Heat) until the last run when the EVO Racer jumped my Time. So 2nd Outright was a happy place indeed. There have been many days placing well and always winning my Class (except once in the wet) since sorting the Steering. So the bits need were:

Tegiwa Rack Raiser UK

SHG Delrin Spacer North America

Hard Race Triple Adjustable Steering Arms (Sydney)
1.9 degree's Caster
2 degrees Camber

Recently I went under the 60 second barrier at my local track. This is the arena held exclusively for Turbo Awd cars. Serious head scratching going on.

Last edited by Trikes; 24 Aug 2019 at 08:37.
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