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9 May 2011, 21:53 (Ref:2877786) | #1 | |
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Equipment query
Hey, new here.
Recently upgraded to my first DSLR (Nikon D3000) and have been looking at lenses. Found the Sigma 70-300mm f4.0-5.6 DG / HSM which is in my budget. Does anyone have experience with this? I can't really afford anymore. |
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9 May 2011, 22:33 (Ref:2877806) | #2 | ||
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The APO version is worth the extra over the non APO version. If not, save a little more.
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Andrew Cliffe - Norwich Photo & Racing Exposure |
9 May 2011, 22:44 (Ref:2877809) | #3 | |
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10 May 2011, 06:40 (Ref:2877892) | #4 | ||
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Better quality glass.
I had a Sigma 70-300 DG for a while. It was cheap and the quality wasn't very good. Quickly upgraded. |
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Andrew Cliffe - Norwich Photo & Racing Exposure |
10 May 2011, 10:05 (Ref:2877992) | #5 | |
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10 May 2011, 10:20 (Ref:2877997) | #6 | ||
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I've not used the APO version myself, but I've seen enough shots from people to see that the small amount extra for the APO version is money well spent.
For circuit motorsport, in the UK, from spectator areas, you will be using 300mm regularly assuming you want the car to fill most of the frame. Only a few circuits have areas where you can get away with much less. |
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Andrew Cliffe - Norwich Photo & Racing Exposure |
10 May 2011, 10:39 (Ref:2878003) | #7 | |
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i'd agree with this. i have a 100-400 and it's mostly between 300-400 for nearly all trackside photography at many circuits. i use 100-300 for pitlane walkabouts and grid shots (saves waving a camera in someone's face when they're trying to greet fans/wear their race face).
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devils advocate in-chief and professional arguer of both sides |
10 May 2011, 11:15 (Ref:2878015) | #8 | |
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Ah shoot They're just so expensive.
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10 May 2011, 14:20 (Ref:2878125) | #9 | |
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it depends what you're going to be using the pictures for - if they're for your own enjoyment and learning your camera and how to make it do what you want then there's no reason why you shouldn't buy what you can afford and enjoy in the meantime. bear in mind that people are comparing its performance to some seriously expensive lenses that aren't really in the kind of price bracket most of us can afford! then when you can afford something better you can sell it on and put the proceeds towards an upgrade.
do you have a local independant camera shop that sells second hand lenses? |
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devils advocate in-chief and professional arguer of both sides |
10 May 2011, 14:34 (Ref:2878133) | #10 | ||
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My first lens was a Sigma 70-300 DG Macro. The closer you got to 300mm the softer you got, but as a beginner i didn't really mind. However the slow focussing was a definate annoyance.
This was replaced with a Sigma 100-300 f4 EX which is a lens I would recommend to many people. Its sharp. It covers a useful range and its comparatively cheap It will take a teleconverter reasonably well, but modern high mega pixel cameras will crop just as well. These can be picked up secondhand, a worthwhile investment. You could probably sell on the cheaper lens and not loose too much money, or you could buy secondhand from one of the many camera forums, or Ebay. |
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Andrew Cliffe - Norwich Photo & Racing Exposure |
10 May 2011, 15:15 (Ref:2878159) | #11 | |
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I have spotted some online used for the same price as the non-apo version new.
At the moment most of my stuff is for me but I do have it displayed online, seeing where it leads. At the moment I'm using a Panasonic Lumix FZ28 and am quite pleased, but like Bella mentioned, everything gets compared to people with white lenses. :\ |
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13 May 2011, 14:48 (Ref:2879907) | #12 | ||
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I'd recommend this 200mm lens Scott;
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-55-200...5297516&sr=8-1 A fantastic lens for the money, with VR, and the crop factor of the D3000's DX sensor gives you an equivalent 300mm anyway. Also, how about an old 'non-AF' lens? Plenty of bargains on Ebay and suchlike, for older, long focal length glass. And for shots of cars on track you'd probably be focussing manually anyway. Or you always hire............. http://www.lensesforhire.co.uk/sigma...-hsm-151-p.asp |
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13 May 2011, 15:01 (Ref:2879913) | #13 | ||
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300mm on a x1.6 crop is really what you need. 200mm really isn't enough for most circuits.
Modern AF does a pretty good job at tracking a racing car. |
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Andrew Cliffe - Norwich Photo & Racing Exposure |
13 May 2011, 15:15 (Ref:2879925) | #14 | ||
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Personal choice I guess, but I prefer MF with cars. AF does a pretty good job as you say, but it's not 100% consistent.
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17 May 2011, 09:25 (Ref:2881515) | #15 | |
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Ah, sorry for taking so long to reply! Teach me not to check *slaps*
Anywho. I was debating getting a MF lens. I see the Nikon AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6G everywhere, just so long as I can still mess about with apeture. As for renting... well, I wouldn't want to give it back I need to sort one sharpish as my next event is MotoGP at Silverstone, really don't want to mess that up... |
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17 May 2011, 09:30 (Ref:2881519) | #16 | |
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it's always good to have af there as an option, even if you don't use it in your main trackside stuff. for example, i use auto focus in the pitlane and for general snaps and where stuff is moving a bit slower! i have a nikon 100-400 or something like that and the af isn't quick enough for on-circuit stuff. af just helps you as the photographer get a bit more out of your lens and get better value for the money you're going to spend.
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17 May 2011, 09:36 (Ref:2881526) | #17 | ||
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Quote:
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17 May 2011, 10:36 (Ref:2881559) | #18 | ||
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I have a 24-105 on one body and either a 100-300 zoom or a 300mm prime on the other.
Serves me well enough for most circuits. Silverstone requires a bit more length or a bit more cropping. |
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Andrew Cliffe - Norwich Photo & Racing Exposure |
17 May 2011, 10:50 (Ref:2881563) | #19 | |
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Yeh, Silverstone is a swine for that.
I should also point out that I'm not one for shots that are "just car" as I call them lol, I like a bit of track or grass etc. |
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17 May 2011, 11:50 (Ref:2881588) | #20 | |||
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Quote:
Personally I find that at a lot of circuits such as Cadwell, Oulton and Donington then 200mm is more than sufficient. I'd agree that with some e.g. Silverstone you can need something longer. I did sort of rush into the 70-300 but now wish I'd hired a few different lenses and tried out various combinations first, so I'd certainly recommend hiring first to get the best feel for what suits you. |
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Gary Clarke |
17 May 2011, 12:07 (Ref:2881600) | #21 | |
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18 May 2011, 15:05 (Ref:2882172) | #22 | ||
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Sony a900 full frame 24.6mp steadyshot in the body so you can use the very wide range of older minolta / konica glass.
70-400G 24-70CZ Will cover just about everything you need, you will need to avoid the canon brainwashed crowd though as they all look down their noses at you .DAVID. |
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Photographer for the CSCC You can sleep in a car BUT you can't race a house!!! |
18 May 2011, 19:24 (Ref:2882287) | #23 | ||
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Sorry - just re-read your initial post and you already have the body [must learn to read properly]
.DAVID. |
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Photographer for the CSCC You can sleep in a car BUT you can't race a house!!! |
19 May 2011, 21:21 (Ref:2882833) | #24 | |
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26 May 2011, 15:14 (Ref:2886223) | #25 | ||
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Your issue will be that as you have a 'cheap' Nikon DSLR, a LOT of metering options just won't work without a modern lens.
I think the D50 may have been the last 'economy' Nikon to do pretty much everything. It at least has a screwdriver for the old AF in Body lenses, where the current ones are AF in Lens. Find a PROPER camera shop, and buy a clean used one. The issue being, it's hard to find a decent proper camera shop anymore! |
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Tim Yorath Ecurie Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch Fan of "the sacred monster Christophe Bouchut"... |
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