Problems with MGB front springs -HELP

[LYNX]

I would be grateful for any help with the problems I am having with my 1969 MGB roadster. It is eating front springs! Is fitted with negative camber kit, competition springs (MOSS) & SPAX telescopic dampers for road use and classic rallies. It is only used for a maximum of 5 monthe per year (up on axle stands when not in use). Average mileage 1,000 miles per year!

PROBLEM: The springs settle out, and the car sits on the bump stops, needing to be changed every other year - any suggestions?

[Goran Malmberg]

Originally Posted by LYNX

PROBLEM: The springs settle out, and the car sits on the bump stops, needing to be changed every other year - any suggestions?

Are the springs shorter in free lenght, standing at the table, after two years.
Goran

[LYNX]

The springs are shorter when taken off the car - but I cannot tell you by how much because the details are in my filing cabinet in England, I am in Spain at the moment.

[Chris Y]

Try buying springs from somewhere else perhaps?

[LYNX]

So far have tried springs from MOSS, MGOC, Browns & Gammon, but apparently come from the same source.

[KAM]

I use Eibach race springs and these have never let me down

[tristancliffe]

Whoops, ignore me. I assumed leaf springs, like a fool.

[Goran Malmberg]

Originally Posted by LYNX

The springs are shorter when taken off the car - but I cannot tell you by how much because the details are in my filing cabinet in England, I am in Spain at the moment.

If the springs are shorter then, it has obviosly been overloaded. I dont know
your Mr or rate of load , and does also find it strange that a spring fabricated for the car is under dimensioned. However, by knowing the loads and the dimension of the wiring I could have calculated what is needed. In general, you should need a spring that has a larger diameter tread and a few more windings. Then you should have a spring with the same pound per inch rating, but designed for a heavier car.
Regards
Goran

[SidewaysFeltham]

What is the difference between the standard springs you removed and the later competition springs you fitted?

Like Goran, unless the new springs are quite a few coils less and made of smaller diameter wire than the standard item, then unless you have drastically increased the loading (by fitting a 15 litre lump e.g.!), there is no way that a new spring could "squash" in such a short amount of use/time.


When the new comp. springs were first fitted, was the ride height correct at that time?

[Dave Brand]

As has been suggested, the springs may be dimensionally incorrect, in which case you will be overstressing them.

Assuming that they are dimensionally correct, loss of free height is most likely due to one of two causes - inferior material or incorrect heat treatment. It would probably be worthwhile getting one of your faulty sets reset & retempered rather than buying again from the same source.

[LYNX]

Hi Goran.The old springs are about 1/2" shorter than when new. I have 4 pairs in the garage. will try Eibek,for replacement springs. Thanks for you comments.

[LYNX]

Am going to try Eibach and see if they can help. Thanks

[LYNX]

I think all these springs are made of rubbish.maybe in India........

[LYNX]

Yes I have e.mailed Eibach to see what they can do. Thanks.

[LYNX]

Just had a e.mail back from Eiback. they say they cannot help.

[SidewaysFeltham]

Obtain some standard "B" springs: heat one coil around the top and "Squash" it down by the desired change in ride height.

Try those for a bit and see what happens.

If they don't collapse down to the bump stops, the you have your answer.

This is how we used to lower the front end of Anglias and Cortinas, before specialised springs became available.

[LYNX]

I don't want to change the ride height, I just want a set of springs that do their job and last more than 1000 miles/2 years before failing. Has no other person had this problem? The car is LHD USA spec. but I can't see that being a problem.

[Tim Falce]

Try asking someone from one of the MGCC race series, I think they have their own forums although the one I belong to is locked for members only.
Other than that it sounds like you are buying crap springs.

[LYNX]

Sadly they are the best I've managed to find and are being sold as competition springs. There must be a specialist dealer in the UK or willing to ship but have been unable to discover one. I was hoping that someone could PM me with an address or offer a solution from a tried and tested method!

[dtype38]

Perhaps a chat with the people at one of the following MGB suspension upgrade companies might provide some insight or possible solutions:

http://www.hawkcars.co.uk/parts/mgbs.../mgbfsusp.html

http://www.mgocaccessories.co.uk/aca...ension_31.html

http://www.v8register.net/subpages/RV8NOTE208.htm

[tristancliffe]

What dimensions and rates are the springs? They must be very odd if Eibach can't help.

[Notso Swift]

You may have got a "Can't help because it is not in the catalogue" type of guy

Calculate the stress factor.
=(2.545 x R x T x (ID + WD)x((((ID + WD)/WD)+0.2) / (((ID + WD) / WD)-1))) / (WD x WD x WD)
(put it into an excel sheet and it is easy!)
Where
ID is Diam Internal
WD is Diam Wire
R Rate in N/mm
T is Travel in mm

If the figure is more than 827 N/mm2/MPA the threshold for "regular" steel has been exceeded
I can't tell you what the threshold for other materials are, like the high silicon stuff that Eibach use (but it is higher). At least this should haelp you work out if it is a design issue

If you have the ID, WD and number of active coils you can also calculatre the actual rate.

[LYNX]

Thank you d Type quote"Perhaps a chat with the people at one of the following MGB suspension upgrade companies might provide some insight or possible solutions:"
Will contact them with full details.

Thanks Notso Swift I will get the calculator dusted off and make my little grey cells work!

[SidewaysFeltham]

Why not try these as a starting point?

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/news/news101.html

Apparently, £19.95 pair.

[LYNX]

Originally Posted by SidewaysFeltham

What is the difference between the standard springs you removed and the later competition springs you fitted?

Like Goran, unless the new springs are quite a few coils less and made of smaller diameter wire than the standard item, then unless you have drastically increased the loading (by fitting a 15 litre lump e.g.!), there is no way that a new spring could "squash" in such a short amount of use/time.


When the new comp. springs were first fitted, was the ride height correct at that time?

Apart from the price! The only difference was a slight increase in height plus the manufacturer's blurb stating they were stronger. Sorry for delay in replying - I "missed" your post first time around.

Thanks for your last post, will try there as well. By the time I have finished with everyones constructive comments and contacted the links - who knows I may become an expert in spring design.