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Old 15 Aug 2019, 10:31 (Ref:3922830)   #4401
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No family arguments on here please!

As always seems to be the case nowadays, there are several YouTube vids on every subject, in this case showing how to use a Fuller Roadranger box. Here’s one- https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qisr-ryn_V8

Now looking for Scammel video....

Mmm, nothing found, but nice bit of history on Scammel..... http://www.scammellregister.co.uk/index.php/history

Last edited by Mike Bell; 15 Aug 2019 at 10:40.
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 11:01 (Ref:3922832)   #4402
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Originally Posted by Mike Bell View Post
No family arguments on here please!

As always seems to be the case nowadays, there are several YouTube vids on every subject, in this case showing how to use a Fuller Roadranger box. Here’s one- https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qisr-ryn_V8

Now looking for Scammel video....

Mmm, nothing found, but nice bit of history on Scammel..... http://www.scammellregister.co.uk/index.php/history
Used to use the same technique when I had my Sierra. Mainly because for most of its mid-life it had a dodgy clutch. A long and sorry saga that was only fixed late in its life.

Wish I had had the extra range of gears though. If only because it would have provided some extra toys to play with.

I pity the usage of the extra range was not covered in the video when he mentioned the potential for getting confused about which gear one is in.

Otherwise quite entertaining.

Thanks for finding and posting Mike.
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 11:06 (Ref:3922833)   #4403
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Mike, the Scammel box was a proper gate box, had three or four neutrals, if you left it running in between 1st and reverse it would seize the box up as the oil pump was not driven. Gear changing was an art in itself, going up the box the knob was held firmly in the palm of the hand with pressure to the right. Going down the box pressure was to the left. If you made a balls up of gear changing you more than likely had to come to a standstill and work your way through the gates till you got to 1st or 2nd. On the 32 tonners we would leave them running between 1st and 2nd neutral to get another half gallon of EP80 to help cooling, as the box was designed in the 1920 s by some one who was either a genius or ****ed.
Actually the box was a three. Speed box which changed from high to low range between 3 and 4 manually by itself, hence my option of the designer.
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 11:13 (Ref:3922835)   #4404
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Used to use the same technique when I had my Sierra. Mainly because for most of its mid-life it had a dodgy clutch. A long and sorry saga that was only fixed late in its life.
A pity the usage of the extra range was not covered in the video when he mentioned the potential for getting confused about which gear one is in.

Otherwise quite entertaining.

Thanks for finding and posting Mike.
More entertaining than ‘How to replace the screen on your phone’ vids, anyway!

Double de-clutching definitely a dying skill! Reckon all newbies should be taught it.....
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 11:19 (Ref:3922836)   #4405
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Mike, the Scammel box was a proper gate box, had three or four neutrals, if you left it running in between 1st and reverse it would seize the box up as the oil pump was not driven. Gear changing was an art in itself, going up the box the knob was held firmly in the palm of the hand with pressure to the right. Going down the box pressure was to the left. If you made a balls up of gear changing you more than likely had to come to a standstill and work your way through the gates till you got to 1st or 2nd. On the 32 tonners we would leave them running between 1st and 2nd neutral to get another half gallon of EP80 to help cooling, as the box was designed in the 1920 s by some one who was either a genius or ****ed.
Actually the box was a three. Speed box which changed from high to low range between 3 and 4 manually by itself, hence my option of the designer.
Sounds great fun...... not! Think I’ll stick to the namby-pamby i-shift.
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 11:39 (Ref:3922840)   #4406
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As all the cars that I have owned since 1973 have been automatics, on a daily basis changing gear using a clutch to change gear is not something I have to worry about.

However, on the occasions that I have to hire a manual car or have driven trucks, I often find myself double de-clutching without thinking. It all comes back to the fact that my early cars didn't have synchromesh, nor, of course, any of the trucks back then. It also helped whenever the clutch cable snapped on the Hillman Imp I had the pleasure of driving between 1966 and 1969.
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 11:46 (Ref:3922841)   #4407
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Originally Posted by Mike Bell View Post
No family arguments on here please!

As always seems to be the case nowadays, there are several YouTube vids on every subject, in this case showing how to use a Fuller Roadranger box. Here’s one- https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qisr-ryn_V8

Now looking for Scammel video....

Mmm, nothing found, but nice bit of history on Scammel..... http://www.scammellregister.co.uk/index.php/history
Thanks for the Scammel history Mike, that's something for me to read at lunchtime!
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 12:07 (Ref:3922845)   #4408
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Thanks for the Scammel history Mike, that's something for me to read at lunchtime!
I love those early artics, and of course the tank transporters! The ‘hundred tonner’ low loader is amazing......
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 12:58 (Ref:3922856)   #4409
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Not a Scammell, but this appeals:-
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 13:10 (Ref:3922857)   #4410
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An AEC.

But then again:
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 15:47 (Ref:3922866)   #4411
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Not a Scammell, but this appeals:-
Yup, definitely like that! Most 8 wheelers you see nowadays are on construction sites or transporting to and from them. Guess the artic has taken over most of the heavy road haulage.
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 16:03 (Ref:3922869)   #4412
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Probably because ballast is the only load dense enough to be too small to make it worth having a rigid.

To illustrate your point, I drove an eight wheeler tipper thirty years ago, keeping a concrete plant fed.

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Old 15 Aug 2019, 16:18 (Ref:3922873)   #4413
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Probably because ballast is the only load dense enough to be too small to make it worth having a rigid.

To illustrate your point, I drove an eight wheeler tipper thirty years ago, keeping a concrete plant fed.
You must have been young, Max!

Note no jokes about ‘feeding concrete plants’.....
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 18:38 (Ref:3922881)   #4414
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I wonder if any one here can help an aged Vauxhall Corsa owner sort out a fault? (For the avoidance of doubt both car and owner are old?

My 1.4 Corsa was running perfectly on Tuesday, motor way, towns etc.
Not used on Wednesday. Thursday morning completely dead electronics, only thing that worked was the red warning light that appears before you start the car, no lights , horn, radio etc, etc,.

Am charging battery as I assume it is flat, however, after a couple of hours I tried reconnecting to see if anything worked. Still stone dead.

Owner manual pretty useless, little help at all.

Could it be a) Shorting out somewhere.
b) A fuse problem.
c) Something else.

Any help gratefully accepted.
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 19:29 (Ref:3922885)   #4415
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You must have been young, Max!



Note no jokes about ‘feeding concrete plants’.....
Sorry about the typo, wrote this while coming down the Fosse Way (in the passenger seat ) Should say something like "too small for an artic."

Yes I was barely old enough to drive ;-)

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Old 15 Aug 2019, 19:50 (Ref:3922888)   #4416
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pzm8rUtEn0


Watch from 5:00 for the next minute.Replayed over and over again for me.Just incredible.Never gets tiring.
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 22:00 (Ref:3922917)   #4417
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I wonder if any one here can help an aged Vauxhall Corsa owner sort out a fault? (For the avoidance of doubt both car and owner are old?

My 1.4 Corsa was running perfectly on Tuesday, motor way, towns etc.
Not used on Wednesday. Thursday morning completely dead electronics, only thing that worked was the red warning light that appears before you start the car, no lights , horn, radio etc, etc,.

Am charging battery as I assume it is flat, however, after a couple of hours I tried reconnecting to see if anything worked. Still stone dead.

Owner manual pretty useless, little help at all.

Could it be a) Shorting out somewhere.
b) A fuse problem.
c) Something else.

Any help gratefully accepted.

A battery cell failure can offer that sort of odd, apparently sudden fail.

Do you have a way of measuring the voltage across the battery terminals?

If you can jump start it and measure the voltage it is receiving with the engine running it would be a way of checking the alternator's performance.

Yes it could be an earth problem - cable from engine to chassis for example - but the battery situation is an easier check if you have a suitable meter. If the electrics are totally dead then the battery is a strong suspect. I've had basically the same thing on my Saab and on Management's Corolla. It's about the only thing that seems to stop the Corolla.

Beyond that I'll leave it to those who know what they are talking about to offer professional advice.
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Old 15 Aug 2019, 22:55 (Ref:3922919)   #4418
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It also helped whenever the clutch cable snapped on the Hillman Imp I had the pleasure of driving between 1966 and 1969.
Worked on a lot of Imps in my time Mike and I never saw one with a cable, they all hydraulic Mind you my memory isn't what it was
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Old 16 Aug 2019, 05:05 (Ref:3922928)   #4419
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Originally Posted by bauble View Post
I wonder if any one here can help an aged Vauxhall Corsa owner sort out a fault? (For the avoidance of doubt both car and owner are old?

My 1.4 Corsa was running perfectly on Tuesday, motor way, towns etc.
Not used on Wednesday. Thursday morning completely dead electronics, only thing that worked was the red warning light that appears before you start the car, no lights , horn, radio etc, etc,.

Am charging battery as I assume it is flat, however, after a couple of hours I tried reconnecting to see if anything worked. Still stone dead.

Owner manual pretty useless, little help at all.

Could it be a) Shorting out somewhere.
b) A fuse problem.
c) Something else.

Any help gratefully accepted.
Bob, there are several on here that know more about modern cars than me, but....

Doubt shorting out. That would have melted something.

The fact that the red light comes on suggests some power available. If battery has a dead cell, however, that may not have enough guts to do anything more than make the lamp come on.

Simple next step would be to try a slave battery on the car. If that doesn’t help then you have some sort of failure in the car electrics themselves.....
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Old 16 Aug 2019, 05:11 (Ref:3922930)   #4420
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These days batteries just fail. If it's more than three years old it will be the battery. Happens more often in hot climates and since you live in petit Pakistan I suspect you have higher temperatures.
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Old 16 Aug 2019, 06:41 (Ref:3922933)   #4421
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Me too Bob, would suspect the battery after checking the connectors. You can read a high voltage when the engine his stopped but everything goes wrong under stress. Batteries die too…
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Old 16 Aug 2019, 06:57 (Ref:3922936)   #4422
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Originally Posted by bauble View Post
I wonder if any one here can help an aged Vauxhall Corsa owner sort out a fault? (For the avoidance of doubt both car and owner are old?

My 1.4 Corsa was running perfectly on Tuesday, motor way, towns etc.
Not used on Wednesday. Thursday morning completely dead electronics, only thing that worked was the red warning light that appears before you start the car, no lights , horn, radio etc, etc,.

Am charging battery as I assume it is flat, however, after a couple of hours I tried reconnecting to see if anything worked. Still stone dead.

Owner manual pretty useless, little help at all.

Could it be a) Shorting out somewhere.
b) A fuse problem.
c) Something else.

Any help gratefully accepted.
I'd go with the others here Baub and suggest it's just that your battery has lost a cell. If you do try jump leads & another battery to prove this it may be worth-while to disconnect maybe the earth connection from your existing battery and then connecting the jump leads directly to a good earth point on the car or engine. The 'dead' battery could sap all of the power from your good one. If you have jump leads, one thing to try first is to use one to temporarily connect the earth side of your battery to somewhere metal on the engine. If the engine earth strap has corroded through (which would greatly reduce the electrical power to your engine) this will bypass that problem and allow the car to start.
Please keep us posted with progress.

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Worked on a lot of Imps in my time Mike and I never saw one with a cable, they all hydraulic Mind you my memory isn't what it was
Thanks for this Gordon. I thought the same when I read Mikes post but didn't have the strength in my convictions to stick my head above the parapet and say this!
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Old 16 Aug 2019, 06:57 (Ref:3922937)   #4423
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Battery on charge, some electrics working, lights etc, but not yet enough to start. Unfortunately the car is on the drive, and the battery is such a tight fit I can't remove it (well easily) so it needs long lead, and charger under the bonnet, so not able to leave overnight.

I will let you know if it starts once fully charged. To avoid battery going flat when not in use can I just disconnect the positive lead, or do I do both?


Many thanks for your help, I take back all I ever said about you all.

Bob
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Old 16 Aug 2019, 07:03 (Ref:3922940)   #4424
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Battery on charge, some electrics working, lights etc, but not yet enough to start. Unfortunately the car is on the drive, and the battery is such a tight fit I can't remove it (well easily) so it needs long lead, and charger under the bonnet, so not able to leave overnight.

I will let you know if it starts once fully charged. To avoid battery going flat when not in use can I just disconnect the positive lead, or do I do both?


Many thanks for your help, I take back all I ever said about you all.

Bob
This sounds promising Baub, but even if you can (temporarily) charge it back to life, I'd suspect your battery is Kaput. If you do manage to get the engine running, and the battery light isn't still showing on the dashboard, I suggest you go to a good honest local car spares place (or whoever does your servicing) who should be able to check your battery condition and alternator charge rate. (It may not be a good idea to go to one of the quick fit type places, such as 'Half cars-Made-in-Dagenham', places like this have a reputation for selling people batteries & alternators whether they need them or not!)
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Old 16 Aug 2019, 07:27 (Ref:3922941)   #4425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bauble View Post
I wonder if any one here can help an aged Vauxhall Corsa owner sort out a fault? (For the avoidance of doubt both car and owner are old?

My 1.4 Corsa was running perfectly on Tuesday, motor way, towns etc.
Not used on Wednesday. Thursday morning completely dead electronics, only thing that worked was the red warning light that appears before you start the car, no lights , horn, radio etc, etc,.

Am charging battery as I assume it is flat, however, after a couple of hours I tried reconnecting to see if anything worked. Still stone dead.

Owner manual pretty useless, little help at all.

Could it be a) Shorting out somewhere.
b) A fuse problem.
c) Something else.

Any help gratefully accepted.
Just another quick thought on this Baub. Now, I would never suggest that you sir could have done something silly like leaving the lights on but, just check that the boot light (if your model has such a thing) is going out when the door is closed. (I'm assuming you have a Corsa hatchback, so this is easy to check either by tilting the rear seat backs forward or removing the rear parcel shelf so you can see into the luggage compartment when the hatch is closed. If your car has a real boot you will have to find yourself a trusting soul who is prepared to climb into the boot and let you then close it to see if it goes dark!). Another possibility could be a light in the glovebox not going out, but this is more difficult to check. Either of these staying on overnight would be enough to flatten your battery.
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