New member says hi......and help!!

[Mike29]

Hi folks, I'm new to this fourum and I would just like to say hi to everyone, and also ask for some help/advise.

I have a Peugout 405 1.9 GLD, (92)K-reg. Whilst driving in a straight line, and also turning into left hand corners/bends, there is a constant humming noise. When I turn the wheel into a right hand corner/bend, the noise stops. Also, whilst turning into a sharp right hand bend, especially going round a roundabout, there is a knocking noise coming from the passenger side. Sounds like its coming from the wheel arch.

As sods law would have it, everytime I let a mechanic drive my car to listen for the knocking noise, it doesn't do it!

I have my suspicions of what maybe wrong, but if anybody has any idea I would be really pleased for some input here.

Thanks guys.

ATB

[Mackmot]

Wheel bearing

[Bluebottle]

Hi Mike, welcome to the forum.
Mackmot is probably right about the wheel bearing although I wonder if the knocking is something else, perhaps suspension related?

[Mike29]

Hi guys,

Thanks for your replys. I thought maybe it was the wheel bearing, I also had suspicions about the ball joint. Perhaps it is something to do with the suspension. I'm gonna have to have it booked in at the garage. I will let you all know what the prob was.

Thanks guys

ATB

[imull]

Wheel bearing or maybe Constant Velocity (CV) Joint or Universal Joint whatever your car may have...

welcome to the mad house

[noodles]

Is the 405 front wheel drive?

If so, it sounds (no pun intended) like a Constant Velocity joint to me on the passenger side.

[garcon]

The 405 is fwd, yes. I'm no mechanic, but I tend to agree - CV joint is the most likely culprit. Get it checked and changed - it's the kind of thing that can get (alot) more expensive the longer you leave it... i.e. when your wheel falls off!

[Airhead]

Sounds like a CV joint (knocking) and a wheel bearing (humming).

Just buy another car..

[oily oaf]

Yeah CV joint is my guess Mike. Check the rubber gaitor for any signs of a split or tear as this will cause road dirt contamination of the joint and accelerate wear. To check the wheel bearing rock the wheel back and forth a few times and listen for any naughty clunking sounds.

[Mike29]

Hi guys,

Thanks for all your replies.

I will have the CV joint checked out sometime this week, along with the wheel bearing. I remember my car failed its MOT because of the CV joint last year. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

ATB

[Mike29]

Well, I took me car to a mechanic. He checked both front wheels, and strangely he says the bearings are ok :confused:

He's checked the CV joint, and it does apparently need sorting out. I hope that cures it. I'm looking to sell it and get something newer. Is it wise to fix it and then sell it, or sell it how it is and let the next owner sort it out? Book price on a 405 is apparently only £750. By the time I fix it up, I aint really getting that much for it I suppose. What do you all think?

Cheers guys

[DAVID PATERSON]

Slightly OT, when checking wheel bearings by the grab, shake and listen method, do y'all recommend doing it with the wheels on the ground or jacked up?

[garcon]

Preferably on a full lift ramp - wouldn't want it to fall off the jack would we...

[DAVID PATERSON]

So, you say the wheel should be on the ground supporting the car when checking bearings, not hanging in the air, unladen?

[BlueBlood]

Not sure how you would spin the wheel to hear bearing noise when its on the ground. If its loud enough to be heard over all the other "normal" pug noises, i would expect the noise to be there when spun by hand. If it alters while turning, left and right, therefore changing the load on the bearsings, then it would most likely be a bearing fault.
If it has a large encased double row bearing, this can sometimes be the only way.
I have found seperating tyres can cause noise also, try swapping the tyre away from the offening corner.

[garcon]

Originally posted by DAVID PATERSON
So, you say the wheel should be on the ground supporting the car when checking bearings, not hanging in the air, unladen?

No, the car should (ideally) be on a full lift ramp, lifted by its chassis points, so the wheels will be hanging in the air, unladen...

But that's about my limit of knowledge - Blueblood and oily oaf took it much further than I could in terms of diagnosis.

[DAVID PATERSON]

I've always checked my wheel bearings by jacking up the wheel, grabbing hold of the tyre and giving it a good shaking to see if it's sloppy. Am I doing it right? I don't have a chassis hoist in my garage.

[BlueBlood]

Checking Front bearings on a RWD car, this is fine. They have two seperate taper roller bearings, and this will show excessive play. Some play is required or they will die from excessive preload.
Big double row ball bearings such as found in the FWD front hubs will not have this play. Either way spinning the free spinning wheel should show any pronouced noises.

[oily oaf]

As Mikes mechanic has isolated the fault to a worn CVJ the diagnosing of worn hub bearings is a bit academic guys. Suffice to say the low rumbling sound of a worn wheel bearing is completely different to that of a driveshaft problem where cornering on full lock at low speeds will produce a clicking or knocking sound indicating wear in the outer CVJ and vibration on acceleration or decelaration usually tells u the problem lies in the inner joint. Mike if I were u mate I'd nip down the breakers and pick up a complete drive shaft for about 30 quid ensuring that the rubber gaitors and oil seals are sound and fit it either yourself or find a tame mechanic to do the job for you. You'll need a tourque wrench, a good strong drive bar, a ball joint seperator to remove the track rod and lower suspension arm balljoints fro the swivel hub and big muscles to crack the driveshaft to hub nut. Go to it fella.

[Mike29]

Cheers oily oaf. Do you think this could be a "safe" problem until September? The M.O.T is due in September, I could get it all sorted out while its in the garage.

Cheers for your input

Regards

Mike

[DAVID PATERSON]

Oily, I was actually hijacking the thread, to find out if I have been incorrectly checking my wheel bearings all these years. My car is RWD and I check my trailer the same way.

There is no way you'd hear the low rumble of worn bearings in my car, it emits 112dB at idle! Also, I wouldn't ehar any noise from the trailer either, it's too far behind me when being towed.

[oily oaf]

Originally posted by DAVID PATERSON
Oily, I was actually hijacking the thread, to find out if I have been incorrectly checking my wheel bearings all these years. My car is RWD and I check my trailer the same way.

There is no way you'd hear the low rumble of worn bearings in my car, it emits 112dB at idle! Also, I wouldn't ehar any noise from the trailer either, it's too far behind me when being towed.

David you thread hi-jacking fiend you Yes mate broadly speaking your method of checking for hub bearing wear is correct sir. Jack up the wheel to be inspected then grab it in the 1/4 past three position and rock it back and forth, repeat with your hands in the 12.30 position and listen for any naughty metallic knocking. Then spin the wheel and listen for any tightness or roughness in the bearing. If there is excessive play in the roadwheel without any knocking from the bearing check the suspension bushes and ball joints for wear or even elongation of the pivot point bolt holes (rare). If all is well retire to pub and spend the money u have so diligently put aside for new hub bearings on copious quantities of the old amber nectar.

[oily oaf]

Originally posted by Mike29
Cheers oily oaf. Do you think this could be a "safe" problem until September? The M.O.T is due in September, I could get it all sorted out while its in the garage.

Cheers for your input

Regards

Mike

Ah the million dollar question Mike If I could accurately predict the exact point of failure of vehicle parts I would be the richest mechanic in this sceptered isle of ours, although I can say without fear of contradiction that if you stick the old Pug in the garage until MOT day u have nothing to fear mate Sorry Mike I'm not trying to be a smartass but without inspecting your motor its impossible to say how long the old CVJ will soldier on for. Is the gaitor torn? if so deterioration will be rapid,is it the inner or outer CVJ? wear in the inner joint will set up heat and vibration in the gearbox sunwheel, never a good thing mate. In short I would get it sorted sooner rather than later because although catastrophic failure of the joint is unlikely the vibration and heat transmitted by the fault may lead to subsiduary probs, driveshaft distortion etc. Good luck. Oily.

[touringcarnut]

Time to send him your bill

[Mike29]

Ok, cheers oily. I will get it back to the mechanic and get it sorted ASAP. I dunno about a torn gaitor, my mechanic never mentioned it. Thanks for the input

Mike