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Old 15 Jan 2006, 08:28 (Ref:1501509)   #201
Al Weyman
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Just as my friend who owned the tyre fitting company and raced Camaros told me many years ago & as said about 50 posts ago!
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Old 15 Jan 2006, 09:56 (Ref:1501543)   #202
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graham bahr should be qualifying in the top 10 on the gridgraham bahr should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
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Originally Posted by dtype38
I spoke to the bloke on the Yokohama stand at Autosport and he said "Don't take any notice of the brochure, go for a 9" rim."

power to the people!! obviously we have learnt something then.

Enough said
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Old 15 Jan 2006, 11:02 (Ref:1501567)   #203
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JohnD should be qualifying in the top 5 on the gridJohnD should be qualifying in the top 5 on the grid
To quote the Guru, Staniforth, "add one or two inches [to the tread width] to get the minimum rim width". Which just confirms the above.
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Old 15 Jan 2006, 11:28 (Ref:1501580)   #204
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Originally Posted by Al Weyman
Just as my friend who owned the tyre fitting company and raced Camaros told me many years ago & as said about 50 posts ago!
OK, ok, so you guys were right all along.... now all I have to do is get a 15" rim to clear my rear upright which is effectively 15.6" dia in a couple of places! I feel my angle grinder beckoning
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To quote the Guru, Staniforth, "add one or two inches"
Has he been talking to my wife?
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Old 15 Jan 2006, 16:56 (Ref:1501741)   #205
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graham bahr should be qualifying in the top 10 on the gridgraham bahr should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
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Originally Posted by dtype38
OK, ok, so you guys were right all along....
still its given us all a chance to gloat!
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Old 15 Jan 2006, 18:35 (Ref:1501793)   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtype38
I spoke to the bloke on the Yokohama stand at Autosport and he said "Don't take any notice of the brochure, go for a 9" rim."
Never been too sure about the Yokohama guys. They appear either brutally honest or very negative ((ie don't tyres on our tyres in the wet, they are f***ing lethal).
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Old 15 Jan 2006, 22:54 (Ref:1501972)   #207
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From what I understand from the Yoko people I've talked to, and from users, their only actual "wet" road legal race tyre is the A021R. It isn't very good and is not popular so its being allowed to die (only available in three or four sizes I think), but the demand in for that sort of tyre isn't enough to justify a a new one. I don't know anything about their track only tyres though.
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Old 15 Jan 2006, 23:35 (Ref:1502002)   #208
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graham bahr should be qualifying in the top 10 on the gridgraham bahr should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
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Originally Posted by dtype38
their only actual "wet" road legal race tyre is the A021R. It isn't very good .
hmm thats a bit of an understatement, i bought some, they were worse than usless in the wet, no grip at all, resulting in an off and a damaged wheel, so i put the slicks back on, and despite it raining good and proper had far more grip and feel
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Old 7 Sep 2007, 02:47 (Ref:2005771)   #209
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Interesting thread. Probably saved me a lot of heartache on selecting and setting up my car for slicks.
R
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Old 11 Sep 2007, 15:30 (Ref:2009402)   #210
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'As been a while since we last chatted about tyres so I thought I'd give an update on what I did for this season.

I actually got fed up trying to find a suitable 15" tyre for racing that I could afford, so went a different route entirely. I plodded through the rims on ebay until I found a nice set of 18" x 8.5" with the right offset from the current Jaguar saloon range. They were cheap (relatively) so I bought them and a set of Toyo 888 Proxies at 235-40R18 to give approximately the same rolling diameter I'd had before. At the same time I backed off my spring rates by 100 lb/inch on each corner to compensate for having much stiffer side walled tyres (that was just a guess as a place to start).

Result? The grip is brilliant wet or dry. I've also done the traditional Lydden Hill meeting in baking temperatures and not managed to get them to go off. Magic!!

All I've got to do now it add the undercar lighting and tinted windows and I'll be properly BLING!
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Old 11 Sep 2007, 16:13 (Ref:2009434)   #211
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AU N EGL should be qualifying in the top 10 on the gridAU N EGL should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
Ok here is a question for ya'll ( southr'n)

What tires are you running and how many heat cycles are you getting before the grip drops of significitly? greater then 1 sec per lap ( i e - time for new tires ).


I run Hoosiers A6s or R6s. I get 4 heat cycles on the A6s and 6 heat cycles ont the R6s. The As are worth 1 to 1.5 secs quicker per lap.

After the race grip is gone I use the tires for practice or lapping days, to about 15 heat cycles or they get corded.
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Old 11 Sep 2007, 16:29 (Ref:2009440)   #212
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Just carry on using them till they are knackered, not made of money!
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Old 11 Sep 2007, 17:24 (Ref:2009503)   #213
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greenamex2 should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
Avon hard slicks.

They have done 6 practices and 5 races and they are about half worn.

So far they don't appear to be significantly slower, but probably dropped a bit between the first practice and race.
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Old 12 Sep 2007, 08:37 (Ref:2009957)   #214
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Originally Posted by dtype38
All I've got to do now it add the undercar lighting and tinted windows and I'll be properly BLING!
Tinted WINDOWS?
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Old 12 Sep 2007, 12:09 (Ref:2010103)   #215
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Originally Posted by dtype38
All I've got to do now it add the undercar lighting and tinted windows and I'll be properly BLING!
Don't forget the blue LED washer jets!
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Old 12 Sep 2007, 13:28 (Ref:2010161)   #216
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AU N EGL should be qualifying in the top 10 on the gridAU N EGL should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
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Don't forget the blue LED washer jets!
Or paint your brake rotors BRIGHT ORANGE so it looks like your braking REAL HARD.
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Old 12 Sep 2007, 14:37 (Ref:2010207)   #217
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All most excellent ideas! Although I think you have a point about the windows Chris. Perhaps the furry dice might bounce about too much as well.

More importantly though, does anyone know where I can get some of the spinny wheel covers that don't turn when the wheels do? I'm thinking that maybe it would a sneeky way to get away with jump starts by fooling the officials into thinking I'm still standing still!

PS Sorry AU, sort of side tracked your question there. I use Yoko 032Rs and Toyo 888s, The former quickly loose about a second over the first couple of meetings, then stabalise for the rest of the season. The latter need a heat cycle or two to get them going, but seem consistently quick all the way down the tread from there. That's just from my impressions though, not too much hard data.

Last edited by dtype38; 12 Sep 2007 at 14:43.
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Old 12 Sep 2007, 14:52 (Ref:2010216)   #218
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AU N EGL should be qualifying in the top 10 on the gridAU N EGL should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
Thanks for the Info on the Toyo 888s. Few guys over here are looking to use these tires, but they seem to be new on this side of the pond.
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Old 13 Sep 2007, 05:35 (Ref:2010772)   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtype38
PS Sorry AU, sort of side tracked your question there. I use Yoko 032Rs and Toyo 888s, The former quickly loose about a second over the first couple of meetings, then stabalise for the rest of the season. The latter need a heat cycle or two to get them going, but seem consistently quick all the way down the tread from there. That's just from my impressions though, not too much hard data.
Further with Yokies, 'cause they are our control tyre.
I find that correct "first use" management is absolutely critical.
A032r's were not so sensitive and you could just about do anything to them, as long as you do not over heat them in their first outing you can simply do 3-5 laps at 90% effort, but still to heat (NOT overheated), let them fully cool (just like brakes) and then you have a very linear wear until they are bald, gradually getting slower, but from the fastest to the slowest would be maybe 2%
With A048 it is a lot harder. First cycle can only be to 70% of working temp, once again they need to fully cool (really over night) This may be one or two laps. If any more heat goes into them they are effectively stuffed, they will work one more time and then they are gone, they will still look brand new, and you will be able to sell them for good dosh, (because the look so new) but they have already lost at least 2%, and probably more. If you do over heat them they will look good for a long time and you will get plenty of time on them, but they will not grip. They are then perfect for Private practice and Track days. I think in order to get a good run from them they need to be buffed, brought up to 70%, cooled then used, this will get you another 3-4 heat cycles within say 0.5% of optimum (which happens at the first run after bedding in) then they drop off and are at the 2+% by about the tenth cycle, not as good as A032r's in that respect, although I think their ultimate speed is the same.
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Old 6 Oct 2007, 10:34 (Ref:2032754)   #220
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In my present game racing in the clay I've seen my drivers do better lap times with taller tyres (diff ratio changed to accomodate this) but the big winner with us is the shoulder construction. For our weight car(s) one being 2200kg the other being under 900kg that Bridgestone outer shoulders and shape work really really well for us. So perhaps you guys might find that useful info with regards to your wets...........trikes
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