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15 Jan 2006, 08:28 (Ref:1501509) | #201 | ||
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Just as my friend who owned the tyre fitting company and raced Camaros told me many years ago & as said about 50 posts ago!
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15 Jan 2006, 09:56 (Ref:1501543) | #202 | |||
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power to the people!! obviously we have learnt something then. Enough said |
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AKA Guru its not speed thats dangerous, just the sudden lack of it! |
15 Jan 2006, 11:02 (Ref:1501567) | #203 | ||
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To quote the Guru, Staniforth, "add one or two inches [to the tread width] to get the minimum rim width". Which just confirms the above.
John |
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15 Jan 2006, 11:28 (Ref:1501580) | #204 | ||||
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15 Jan 2006, 16:56 (Ref:1501741) | #205 | |||
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AKA Guru its not speed thats dangerous, just the sudden lack of it! |
15 Jan 2006, 18:35 (Ref:1501793) | #206 | |||
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15 Jan 2006, 22:54 (Ref:1501972) | #207 | ||
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From what I understand from the Yoko people I've talked to, and from users, their only actual "wet" road legal race tyre is the A021R. It isn't very good and is not popular so its being allowed to die (only available in three or four sizes I think), but the demand in for that sort of tyre isn't enough to justify a a new one. I don't know anything about their track only tyres though.
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15 Jan 2006, 23:35 (Ref:1502002) | #208 | |||
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AKA Guru its not speed thats dangerous, just the sudden lack of it! |
7 Sep 2007, 02:47 (Ref:2005771) | #209 | ||
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Interesting thread. Probably saved me a lot of heartache on selecting and setting up my car for slicks.
R |
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11 Sep 2007, 15:30 (Ref:2009402) | #210 | ||
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'As been a while since we last chatted about tyres so I thought I'd give an update on what I did for this season.
I actually got fed up trying to find a suitable 15" tyre for racing that I could afford, so went a different route entirely. I plodded through the rims on ebay until I found a nice set of 18" x 8.5" with the right offset from the current Jaguar saloon range. They were cheap (relatively) so I bought them and a set of Toyo 888 Proxies at 235-40R18 to give approximately the same rolling diameter I'd had before. At the same time I backed off my spring rates by 100 lb/inch on each corner to compensate for having much stiffer side walled tyres (that was just a guess as a place to start). Result? The grip is brilliant wet or dry. I've also done the traditional Lydden Hill meeting in baking temperatures and not managed to get them to go off. Magic!! All I've got to do now it add the undercar lighting and tinted windows and I'll be properly BLING! |
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11 Sep 2007, 16:13 (Ref:2009434) | #211 | ||
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Ok here is a question for ya'll ( southr'n)
What tires are you running and how many heat cycles are you getting before the grip drops of significitly? greater then 1 sec per lap ( i e - time for new tires ). I run Hoosiers A6s or R6s. I get 4 heat cycles on the A6s and 6 heat cycles ont the R6s. The As are worth 1 to 1.5 secs quicker per lap. After the race grip is gone I use the tires for practice or lapping days, to about 15 heat cycles or they get corded. |
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"When the fear of death out weighs the thrill of speed, brake." LG |
11 Sep 2007, 16:29 (Ref:2009440) | #212 | ||
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Just carry on using them till they are knackered, not made of money!
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You can't polish a turd but you sure can sprinkle it with glitter! |
11 Sep 2007, 17:24 (Ref:2009503) | #213 | ||
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Avon hard slicks.
They have done 6 practices and 5 races and they are about half worn. So far they don't appear to be significantly slower, but probably dropped a bit between the first practice and race. |
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12 Sep 2007, 08:37 (Ref:2009957) | #214 | |||
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This planet is mildly noted for its hoopy casinos. |
12 Sep 2007, 12:09 (Ref:2010103) | #215 | |||
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12 Sep 2007, 13:28 (Ref:2010161) | #216 | |||
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"When the fear of death out weighs the thrill of speed, brake." LG |
12 Sep 2007, 14:37 (Ref:2010207) | #217 | ||
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All most excellent ideas! Although I think you have a point about the windows Chris. Perhaps the furry dice might bounce about too much as well.
More importantly though, does anyone know where I can get some of the spinny wheel covers that don't turn when the wheels do? I'm thinking that maybe it would a sneeky way to get away with jump starts by fooling the officials into thinking I'm still standing still! PS Sorry AU, sort of side tracked your question there. I use Yoko 032Rs and Toyo 888s, The former quickly loose about a second over the first couple of meetings, then stabalise for the rest of the season. The latter need a heat cycle or two to get them going, but seem consistently quick all the way down the tread from there. That's just from my impressions though, not too much hard data. Last edited by dtype38; 12 Sep 2007 at 14:43. |
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12 Sep 2007, 14:52 (Ref:2010216) | #218 | ||
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Thanks for the Info on the Toyo 888s. Few guys over here are looking to use these tires, but they seem to be new on this side of the pond.
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"When the fear of death out weighs the thrill of speed, brake." LG |
13 Sep 2007, 05:35 (Ref:2010772) | #219 | |||
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I find that correct "first use" management is absolutely critical. A032r's were not so sensitive and you could just about do anything to them, as long as you do not over heat them in their first outing you can simply do 3-5 laps at 90% effort, but still to heat (NOT overheated), let them fully cool (just like brakes) and then you have a very linear wear until they are bald, gradually getting slower, but from the fastest to the slowest would be maybe 2% With A048 it is a lot harder. First cycle can only be to 70% of working temp, once again they need to fully cool (really over night) This may be one or two laps. If any more heat goes into them they are effectively stuffed, they will work one more time and then they are gone, they will still look brand new, and you will be able to sell them for good dosh, (because the look so new) but they have already lost at least 2%, and probably more. If you do over heat them they will look good for a long time and you will get plenty of time on them, but they will not grip. They are then perfect for Private practice and Track days. I think in order to get a good run from them they need to be buffed, brought up to 70%, cooled then used, this will get you another 3-4 heat cycles within say 0.5% of optimum (which happens at the first run after bedding in) then they drop off and are at the 2+% by about the tenth cycle, not as good as A032r's in that respect, although I think their ultimate speed is the same. |
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Contrary to popular opinion, I do have mechanical sympathy, I always feel sorry for the cars I drive. |
6 Oct 2007, 10:34 (Ref:2032754) | #220 | |
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In my present game racing in the clay I've seen my drivers do better lap times with taller tyres (diff ratio changed to accomodate this) but the big winner with us is the shoulder construction. For our weight car(s) one being 2200kg the other being under 900kg that Bridgestone outer shoulders and shape work really really well for us. So perhaps you guys might find that useful info with regards to your wets...........trikes
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