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Old 4 Oct 2006, 18:36 (Ref:1727915)   #1
flockofseagulls
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What grade aluminium for undertray?

Evening all,

I need to replace the undertray on my Jamun as is it looks like a used can of sardines, can anyone advise what grade of aluminium I need to use? Need to keep the weight down too as it already weighs the same as a tank, so I can't use stainless.

Cheers

John
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Old 5 Oct 2006, 09:25 (Ref:1728546)   #2
StephenRae
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T6 is good but has to be heated to bend
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Old 5 Oct 2006, 11:13 (Ref:1728673)   #3
Triple J Motorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flockofseagulls
Evening all,

I need to replace the undertray on my Jamun as is it looks like a used can of sardines, can anyone advise what grade of aluminium I need to use? Need to keep the weight down too as it already weighs the same as a tank, so I can't use stainless.

Cheers

John

Why not get Tony to make you one?

Made me one for my Mygale super light and perfect fit
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Old 5 Oct 2006, 19:31 (Ref:1729195)   #4
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mattray has a lot of promise if they can keep it on the circuit!
H4 is what I was told a while ago by Peter Alexander, might have got that wrong though
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Old 6 Oct 2006, 09:34 (Ref:1729760)   #5
flockofseagulls
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thanks for your suggestions, I have just spoke to Tony Mundi and he suggested the following....

HS30 (TF Condition) 16 gauge (1.5mm).

He also recommended fixing the undertray to the chassis with countersunk steel rivets and epoxy resin. So if anyone has made as many trips over the kerbs as I have hopefully this info is useful. Thats a job for this weekend then...
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Old 6 Oct 2006, 09:58 (Ref:1729780)   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flockofseagulls
thanks for your suggestions, I have just spoke to Tony Mundi and he suggested the following....

HS30 (TF Condition) 16 gauge (1.5mm).

He also recommended fixing the undertray to the chassis with countersunk steel rivets and epoxy resin. So if anyone has made as many trips over the kerbs as I have hopefully this info is useful. Thats a job for this weekend then...
Yep exactly what we did
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Old 6 Oct 2006, 17:29 (Ref:1730121)   #7
SCOBER11
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Epoxy resin??

Would this mean that the floor would be bonded to the chasis??

Last i heard bonding of panels to the chasis was not allowed, could be wrong anyone else know?
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Old 6 Oct 2006, 17:49 (Ref:1730135)   #8
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Alan Raine should be qualifying in the top 3 on the gridAlan Raine should be qualifying in the top 3 on the gridAlan Raine should be qualifying in the top 3 on the gridAlan Raine should be qualifying in the top 3 on the grid
Never used it myself. Stops the rivets falling out?
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Old 6 Oct 2006, 21:49 (Ref:1730289)   #9
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Can't remember using Epoxy!!!!

Silcoflex maybe, but it's more to stop vibration...........
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Old 7 Oct 2006, 11:56 (Ref:1730687)   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOBER11
Epoxy resin??

Would this mean that the floor would be bonded to the chasis??

Last i heard bonding of panels to the chasis was not allowed, could be wrong anyone else know?
It's illegal to bond panels to the chassis and rivets must be 6" apart but this does not apply to the floor

It's not epoxy resin but glue we used to use however it's such a **** to get off we now use a different glue.
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Old 7 Oct 2006, 16:40 (Ref:1730806)   #11
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A different problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenRae
T6 is good but has to be heated to bend
T-6 is a hardness designation and achieved by heat treatment.

Not all grades of Aluminum are hardenable. 6061 is, 2024 is not. 6061 is what used to be referred to as "Aircraft Grade".
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Old 8 Oct 2006, 03:31 (Ref:1731274)   #12
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All 6000 series (6061 and 6010 being the most common) must be annealled (brought out of T6 state before they can be worked, but this generally applies to bending only.) they can be cut or drilled in their T6 state just fine but any bending will crack them. They need to be heat treated back to T6 state to retain their best strengths. A more workable series (if bending IS required) would be a 5000 series (with magnesium content below 5%) which does not require heat treat after (as it work and age hardens much more quickly) to retain its max strength, such as 5052, 5454, but definately stay away from 5056.
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Old 9 Oct 2006, 08:22 (Ref:1732617)   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebear
T-6 is a hardness designation and achieved by heat treatment.

Not all grades of Aluminum are hardenable. 6061 is, 2024 is not. 6061 is what used to be referred to as "Aircraft Grade".
You live and learn...I have been using 6082-T6, it's very very hard and polishes really well. What happened to L72 which I have used in the past?
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