Fuel lines

[pit bull]

I am seriously considering running my fuel lines inside the car along the transmission tunnel, can I use standard fuel hose, or must it be braided.
The hose will then go through the bulk head properly grommeted of course.

[AU N EGL]

Run the braided lines for safety.

[graham bahr]

if its for competiton use any fuel lines in the cockpit must either be metal or braided and cannot have any joints in them unless they are FIA approved.

[pit bull]

Originally Posted by graham bahr

if its for competiton use any fuel lines in the cockpit must either be metal or braided and cannot have any joints in them unless they are FIA approved.

It will be in competition use, now I'm in a dilemma, as regard putting in solid fuel lines or braided rubber pipes ?????

[GORDON STREETER]

I run metal ones inside my car. Just like brake pipe (copper ? ) but larger diameter, as it bends without kinking. Just run it away from any heat source or electrical cables.

[terence]

I'm with Gordon,only problem with metal is complying with the regs IE,running a solid line through can be a bit of a pain,copper in dash 8 is pretty easy to work though.

[ScoopJumps]

Personally, if you can afford it, I would use braided aeroquip type hoses. It is expensive but it could be the difference between a firey cockpit or not in the event of a crash (and it looks gorgeous). Keep it away from routing between pinch points ie. around outside of rollcage between bars and sills. The tunnel sounds like a good idea as long as there isn't too much heat as I can't imagine it does any good for the composition of the fuel by the time it reaches the engine.

[Chris Y]

Yep, go for 'Aeroquip style' braided fuel lines inside the car - best way of doing it.

[graham bahr]

i use copper, cheap and easy to get down at B+Q as its used for micro bore central heating etc, because it comes rolled up its not that bad to fit, if you run it down the tunnel you usually have a pretty straight run of pipe and its easy to do, once your through the bulkheads a few plumbing fittings will easily deal with tight corners if needed

[SidewaysFeltham]

We always used to use steel bundy pipe (same as brakes) for internal fuel lines, on rally and autocross preparation, only since it prevented damage when "on the loose" from rocks and stones thrown up.

It was then standard practice for all fuel and brake lines to be run inside the car.

Simple enough to bend, with a cheap bundy tube bender: mine came from Snap On, not outrageously expensive.

We had a very comprehensive bundy flaring tool, though. Not cheap!

I would probably use copper, as there are oodles of connections available in any decent plumbing shop for 8 m.m and 10 m.m.

Don't forget, if you cleat it with "U" clamps buy a slightly larger clamp and slide rubber/neoprene/plastic tubing over the pipe to prevent chafing and vibration.

[GORDON STREETER]

Although the Aeroquip type will give you that "bling" factor, I can't see it being any better safety wise ?

[terence]

It's not Gordon,as you say "Bling"!!!

[graham bahr]

Originally Posted by GORDON STREETER

Although the Aeroquip type will give you that "bling" factor, I can't see it being any better safety wise ?

its probably a bit safer than plain hose, but at the end of the day inside it is still a pipe that can be torn cut or easily melted, if you want maxium safety then its got to be a metal pipe

[SidewaysFeltham]

Agree, Gordon, Aeroquip isn't, for example self-extinguishing.

Personally, I'd always go with steel.

Quite a few years ago, it became a fad: second user race cars were always advertised with "Aeroquip" as a glitzy sales point!

As an old fart, who matured with the simple concept that modifications to racing and competition cars of all sorts were intended to make them go faster and nothing much else, I must admit to, at times, being quite cynical about the whole thing, today!

Of course, I do and must accept that other mods have made them safer: a sting in the tail here, though.

With the massive increase in safety and the seeming endless stream of sponsors with an open cheque book, no one worries too much about impacting their cars either on each other or a handy section of Armco!

Perhaps having to stay up all night for a couple of days to put the car back together in time might be a good discipline?

Ah me.................

Sigh..

[pit bull]

A good debate, with pros and cons for either, I think I'll go the metal pipe route as there is less chance of chaffing or being cut accidentally, cheers guys for all your imput

[GordonG]

I've ruined a braided brake hose before by accidentally touching it with a 12V feed - the spark melted the PTFE hose inside and all the fluid leaked out. Had that been fuel line, inside the car, it could have got a lot more interesting.

If youre going to put fuel line insiide the car, then I'd go with copper or steel every time.By all means run braid down the outside of *that* if you really want to be bling...

G

[Momus]

We are talking about racing cars here so weight saving as well as safety is a factor.
Seamless aluminium tubing is light, durable, aesthetic, inexpensive and can be bent with the same sort of cheap plumbers gear that does copper. It is available in '0' temper ie dead soft from Earls or as lengths from your local ally. supplier.
Standard AN fittings (# fittings) are compatible with the imperial sizes and since aircraft use this material you can be sure that the B nut and ferrule connection reliability is first class.
You do have to use bulk head fittings at the firewalls and cushion clamps every 300 mm or so but for a professional, serviceable installation you cannot beat it. For a few bucks extra it can be anodised and colored once made.
The braided stuff is heavy, expensive, bulky and smaller bore than nominal tube size and to my mind smacks of conspicuous consumption.

[pit bull]

As far as I'm conserned, I'm building a race car, not a show winner, so no "bling" for me, going for the safest less expensive option

[Tim Falce]

Dont forget that Teflon steel braided pipe has absolutely no strength if the braiding gets cut or frayed so be very carefull about running it through bulkheads etc.

[Alex Hodgkinson]

Interesting topic. For the car I'm building I'd already decided to run a braided fuel line through the cockpit.
Going off topic though, I'm still not 100% sure about the regulations regarding fuel tanks inside the driving compartment. If we use a fuel cell inside the boot with a dry break filler, does the whole tank/filler arrangement have to be segregated from the rest of the driving compartment?

[terence]

You will need a fully sealed Bulkhead with the tank in the boot.Just make sure theres no daylight showing through any of the bulkhead anywhere and it should not be a problem.

[Alex Hodgkinson]

That's what I thought, but I keep seeing cars without any form of bulkhead using the setup I plan to, such as this: http://www.racecarsdirect.com/viewli...php?view=15475

Can't figure out what I need to do, the rules don't make much sense to me if these cars are legal.

[terence]

If you remove the rear seat,depending on the car,chances are you will be looking straight into the boot! This is where you need to seal off with a fireproof material ie,ally sheeting.Idealy the sheeting will be sealed around all joints with a fireproof sealant,like I've already said,make sure there is no daylight showing through.

[GORDON STREETER]

http://tentenths.com/forum/showthrea...=102828&page=3

In my post 33 this is what its all about. In the case of the Anglia the fuel came over the top of the wheel arches and inside the car.

[Alex Hodgkinson]

Had a look at a few cars at Donington Park during the week and now I can visualise what's required. Seems quite common to put a box over the top of the top of the fuel tank, fillers, etc. That's what confused me because at a glance I thought they were the fuel tank