Penetrating oil

[Dave Brand]

Originally Posted by JohnD

Indeed, it's not a good lubricant.
WD40 is billed as having 2000 uses,

1999 of which I've yet to find. It's a water dispersant; for any other application there's another product which actually works. . .

[bdwoody]

funnily enough it does stop fan belts sqeeking !!!!! strange but true ..
"wurth rost off " thats the stuff i was trying to think of earlier.
if ya want to get real trick with nipples you could have some made in "MONAL" thats what the rivets on masts are made from in the yachty world ....not cheap though !..

[Dave Brand]

Originally Posted by bdwoody

you could have some made in "MONAL"

I think you mean monel!

[bdwoody]

err , i think your right but we have "monal" written on all the bar we have ...hehe

[GORDON STREETER]

Originally Posted by bdwoody

funnily enough it does stop fan belts sqeeking !!!!! strange but true!..

But only for 5 minutes
I will stand by what I say in that if something is seized or rusted up no penetrating oil works. You might just as well stick whatever part you need to free off in a tin of diesel instead of buying expensive cans of brand x that claims amazing things !!

[bdwoody]

its all ya need gordon when ya floggin a old cortina mk3 !!! lol

[GORDON STREETER]

Originally Posted by bdwoody

its all ya need gordon when ya floggin a old cortina mk3 !!! lol

Point taken To be fair to the WD 40 types of silicone sprays, they are good for door locks and window channels for a certain amount of time.
Also they are clean and easy to use in inaccessible places "ooh err missus "

[jerryk]

Originally Posted by GORDON STREETER

To be fair to the WD 40 types of silicone sprays,

no silicone in WD40 , never has been

but you knew that really didn't you Gordon , just testing us mere oiks

[GORDON STREETER]

Ah you were paying attention. that's good as you won't have to stay in and have extra lessons with my wife after all She had got the nipple clamps ready Jerry !

[jerryk]

bu**er !

[R59]

Originally Posted by GORDON STREETER

Point taken To be fair to the WD 40 types of silicone sprays, they are good for door locks and window channels for a certain amount of time.
Also they are clean and easy to use in inaccessible places "ooh err missus "

I was always told that "Rocket WD40" was the wonder jollop. Made to keep water off of Atlas rockets.

Plus-Gas - marvellous stuff. Finding it in aerosols is pretty easy, but I prefer the old liquid cans - you're not paying for the propellant.

I like the idea of warming the caliper and freezing the nipple - the alloy will expand faster than the steel, and the nipple should shrink a bit, making it looser than a $5........ ooo err missus!

Wish I'd had some of that (nipple freezing squirty stuff) when I was changing the axle tubes in my Winters Quickchange. One came out easy - the other was very very stubborn - almost as difficult as getting a prime-minister to say sorry!

[thebear]

As a last resort (assuming that the nipple is not intended for re-use), cut the end off the nipple leaving the hex intact. Get a tool from your local hardware store called an "Easy Out". It is similar to a tap and fits in a tap handle. It has a very coarse LEFT HAND thread.

1. Drill the hole in the nipple as large as is resonably possible. (From this point one could continue enlarging the hole in small increments until the offending nipple crumbles, but I digress)

2. Apply your preferred release agent

3. Apply a few taps on the caliper with a "stout object". This instruction was found on a commercial penetrating oil product. It's aim is to "set up vibrations" and aid the dispersal of the product into the affected area.

4. Thread the "Easy Out" (minding the LEFT HAND threads) into the drilled hole and `hope for the best'. Make sure that you are not exerting any side force as the "Easy Out" can break. An apropriate box-end wrench should be employed simultaneously to ease the stress on the "Easy Out".

There will be a short quiz at the end of the week. .

[GORDON STREETER]

Left handed extracting tools are about as useless as a chocolate fire guard as all they do is expand the thing you're trying to get out making it worse, and if it snaps off its too hard to drill out !
In this case the nipple is still intact with the hex on it so why cut it off when you can get purchase on it with a spanner or socket ?

[JamesH]

I've not had much success with easy outs either - broken two trying to get a sheared exhaust stud out of a crossflow head. They are a bugger to then drill out. In the end just drilled out using larger and large drills until I could pick out the remains of the studs and easy outs with a pointed stick thingy. Took ages, but got there in the end.

[thebear]

Originally Posted by GORDON STREETER

Left handed extracting tools are about as useless as a chocolate fire guard as all they do is expand the thing you're trying to get out making it worse, and if it snaps off its too hard to drill out !
In this case the nipple is still intact with the hex on it so why cut it off when you can get purchase on it with a spanner or socket ?

Allow me to repeat myself: As a last resort (assuming that the nipple is not intended for re-use), cut the end off the nipple leaving the hex intact.

[GORDON STREETER]

Originally Posted by thebear;2440916[B

cut the end off the nipple leaving the hex intact[/B].

But why cut the end off ? If you can't undo it with a spanner or a socket you ain't gonna shift it with anything ! If it breaks off you have a ready made perfect pilot hole for drilling anyway
Last Resort ! a good Eagles track

[thebear]

Originally Posted by GORDON STREETER

But why cut the end off ? If you can't undo it with a spanner or a socket you ain't gonna shift it with anything ! If it breaks off you have a ready made perfect pilot hole for drilling anyway
Last Resort ! a good Eagles track

The intent is to prepare for the "Easy-Out". It is assumed that this is a last resort after all other methods have failed.

[Dave Brand]

Originally Posted by thebear

The intent is to prepare for the "Easy-Out". It is assumed that this is a last resort after all other methods have failed.

The last resort is spark erosion to remove the broken Easy-Out!

[GORDON STREETER]

Of course you could always forget about the sized nipple and bleed the caliper by loosening off the hose, just as long as its at the top.
A good trick that I have used many times with flush snapped off "bolts n things " over the years is this.
Find a decent "thickish" washer the same size as the offending "thing", position the washer over the "thing" and mig weld the two together. Then mig weld a nut to the washer. After it cools down a bit you will find that you can probably undo it.
The action of the heat going down the thread tends to loosen it up, obviously you have to be a bit careful and don't weld the snapped off "thing" to the surround.

[Casper]

Heat it up and then hit it with a fire extinguisher, you may laugh but the very fast cooling will break the corrosion. Mind you that is most probably not the problem at all. The likely problem is that the nipple has been screwed in so hard the threads have stretched and it is locked in by that. You can get repair kits, give it to a brake expert, he will drill it out and put a repair kit in, problem solved.

[GORDON STREETER]

Casper that exactly what I said in post 10, Stay awake at the back !!!!

[phoenix]

Originally Posted by Casper

give it to a brake expert, he will drill it out and put a repair kit in, problem solved.

Nominate your brake expert..... Kent/South East please

Or maybe I'll take it to Chiddingstone and stand in a pub (drinking Larkins) until a recognisable expert walks in.....

[phoenix]

Forgot to say - got a whizzy product to try out from a mate who is an aircraft engineer at Gatwick. Sometimes parts seize on jet engines, so he let me have a 500ml can of the recommended stuff that British Airways engineers use for the price of a JD and Coke.

Don't know if it works - but I will report back here if it does!

[GORDON STREETER]

Originally Posted by phoenix

Nominate your brake expert..... Kent/South East please

Or maybe I'll take it to Chiddingstone and stand in a pub (drinking Larkins) until a recognisable expert walks in.....

I'll be at the bar in the "Rock" with my Black n Decker in hand ready for you. Although after about 9pm I can't guarantee that I will drill it centrally

[Casper]

Originally Posted by GORDON STREETER

Casper that exactly what I said in post 10, Stay awake at the back !!!!

I'm not going to re-read the whole thing. I couldn't believe it has gone on for so long when I came back to the thread, it should be fixed and back on the car. Such a simple problem to fix in my view.