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Old 4 Dec 2017, 16:31 (Ref:3785082)   #3526
Mike Harte
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Mike Harte should be qualifying in the top 5 on the gridMike Harte should be qualifying in the top 5 on the gridMike Harte should be qualifying in the top 5 on the grid
Talking about not being smart, I've just received an email from Ebay (if you are also a subscriber, you may have got it as well) which invites me to "Decorate your home this Christmas", except that they left out the "m" in home which gives a whole new meaning to Xmas. Especially for our cousins across the pond!
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Old 4 Dec 2017, 16:51 (Ref:3785086)   #3527
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I wonder if it would have been worth more if left LHD? I remember the E30 M3 conversion included having to throw the original exhaust manifold away, and think converting an Integrale was also difficult.....
Yep, one of my buddy bought for cheap money a 530 ex TWR a road going car converted to race car and from LHD to RHD. Some parts are quite a challenge to find as you say, at least in France, exhaust manifold and the complete steering system because the early 5 series didn't have a rack and pinion system but the agricultural one which works great (identical to Bertone's and many others). The wiper system has always been kept as original so for a LHD car.
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Old 4 Dec 2017, 16:54 (Ref:3785087)   #3528
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Au fait, mon ami Robert did you hear that Peugeot is complaining about Opel/ Vauxhall real financial situation? You know French people they make the deal and are happy with then they start complaining a while after signing for! Sooo typical!
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Old 4 Dec 2017, 17:18 (Ref:3785094)   #3529
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Old 4 Dec 2017, 19:46 (Ref:3785120)   #3530
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Thanks Paul (?)! Welcome back to tenths and HRT in particular.
Thanks for the welcome, and thanks to HRT too for keeping my interest in racing alive.
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Old 5 Dec 2017, 08:50 (Ref:3785208)   #3531
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Grant, that beemer is in a difficult place. It’s new enough to be complicated and unfixable by amateurs, but old enough to an uneconomic repair if fixed by the trade!

You need a local Gordon Streeter, who could at least give you a straight answer to the dilemma.....
Last year I brought a car from a local dealer with all sorts of electrical problems that they had spent loads of time trying to fix, but gave up as it was costing them time and money.
I had noticed that it had been valeted inside possibly with a steam cleaner, the electric window multi switch in the door looked remarkably clean so I removed it and cleaned it out inside and bingo everything else started to work, a result for half an hours work
The main problem with electrics in cars today is because of things working on micro volts with canbus wiring it only takes a small problem to cause all sorts of faults.
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Old 5 Dec 2017, 09:09 (Ref:3785211)   #3532
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I had similar problems with my wife's old Clio, it had all sorts of warning lights come up on the dash and faults came up and all caused by a bad earth on a brake light plug.
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Old 5 Dec 2017, 09:35 (Ref:3785218)   #3533
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Last year I brought a car from a local dealer with all sorts of electrical problems that they had spent loads of time trying to fix, but gave up as it was costing them time and money.
I had noticed that it had been valeted inside possibly with a steam cleaner, the electric window multi switch in the door looked remarkably clean so I removed it and cleaned it out inside and bingo everything else started to work, a result for half an hours work
The main problem with electrics in cars today is because of things working on micro volts with canbus wiring it only takes a small problem to cause all sorts of faults.
Thanks Gordon.

Pics received this morning show the instrument cluster dead but the radio/aircon/heater lights are on. And the car starts and runs.

Seems this sort of thing is not uncommon - as you said.

Going to take a look this morning. Starting points are either the fuses or, apparently, a battery disconnect which is, it seems, the equivalent of a computer reboot.

So many fuses in 2 locations that if the fuse diagram is missing I may go straight for the battery disconnect.

I'll take some time to check for obviously clean or possibly removed and replaced panels that might be the result of the valet work. If there really is moisture in the radio display I guess anything is possible!

Thanks for the tip Gordon!
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Old 5 Dec 2017, 09:47 (Ref:3785220)   #3534
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Thanks Gordon.

Pics received this morning show the instrument cluster dead but the radio/aircon/heater lights are on. And the car starts and runs.

Seems this sort of thing is not uncommon - as you said.

Going to take a look this morning. Starting points are either the fuses or, apparently, a battery disconnect which is, it seems, the equivalent of a computer reboot.

So many fuses in 2 locations that if the fuse diagram is missing I may go straight for the battery disconnect.

I'll take some time to check for obviously clean or possibly removed and replaced panels that might be the result of the valet work. If there really is moisture in the radio display I guess anything is possible!

Thanks for the tip Gordon!
Grant, it may be sensible to check if there are any special battery disconnection/reconnection procedures to be carried out before you start with the spanners! Due to the high number of 'electronic devices' in the modern motor-car, if you don't follow these things to the letter, you can create even more problems!
We fitted a replacement battery to an Aston Martin DB earlier in the year, the battery is below the rear seat. Obviously, to do this we worked with the drivers door open. job done we sent the (happy) customer on his way. 10 minutes later he returned, to tell us that nothing electrical on the drivers door was working, electric windows, mirror adjust etc. After a lot of head scratching and checking with the magic diagnostic machine we decided to drop the roof, and reconnect the battery when the doors were closed. Thankfully this did the trick, so presumably if the door is open when the battery is connected, the clever car assumes that the door isn't there so refuses to work anything from it!
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Old 5 Dec 2017, 09:48 (Ref:3785221)   #3535
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I had similar problems with my wife's old Clio, it had all sorts of warning lights come up on the dash and faults came up and all caused by a bad earth on a brake light plug.
I've had similar problems with the wife but absent a reset button I was not minded to attempt a search for poor connections in such a high voltage system.

Elder daughter (yes, the same one that owns the BMW) has a Fiat Punto for her first car. She used it for work when she left University by which time it was about 5 years old.

On a drive back from a client one night a headlight failed. That particular model of Punto had an interesting design quirk in the electrics that mean if one bulb failed the other would also fail shortly after. About 15 minutes in this case. So she ended up driving much of the way on side lights in the middle of winter.

The Fiat service dealer told me there was a wiring mod available for a fee.

As she was about to get a company car and sell the Punto we declined.

Thanks Tim. Something else to consider given the in depth valet work that seems to have been required. Who know what might have got in where. Not good weather for helping to dry out any errant moisture.
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Old 5 Dec 2017, 09:57 (Ref:3785224)   #3536
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Grant, it may be sensible to check if there are any special battery disconnection/reconnection procedures to be carried out before you start with the spanners! Due to the high number of 'electronic devices' in the modern motor-car, if you don't follow these things to the letter, you can create even more problems!
We fitted a replacement battery to an Aston Martin DB earlier in the year, the battery is below the rear seat. Obviously, to do this we worked with the drivers door open. job done we sent the (happy) customer on his way. 10 minutes later he returned, to tell us that nothing electrical on the drivers door was working, electric windows, mirror adjust etc. After a lot of head scratching and checking with the magic diagnostic machine we decided to drop the roof, and reconnect the battery when the doors were closed. Thankfully this did the trick, so presumably if the door is open when the battery is connected, the clever car assumes that the door isn't there so refuses to work anything from it!
Good grief. Too clever for words! No wonder cars as written off for what seems to be minor damage these days.

Sounds like it was fortunate that it was a soft top. The next step would have been to chop the roof off, Fire Service style!

One more thing to bear in mind and I am very wary of disconnecting batteries but, apparently, it's quite normal approach with BMWs although not always successful.

I suspect it may have a tendency to lose personalised settings .... but the car is for sale anyway so that is not a concern.

Right, off to see what I can discover if I can find away to get across to the other side of the M1!
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Old 5 Dec 2017, 10:14 (Ref:3785227)   #3537
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I've just checked our workshop information system. There is no special battery disconnection/connection procedure listed so hopefully it is straightforward. Just make sue you don't leave the keys inside the car, sometimes the central locking triggers when the battery is re-connected!
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Old 5 Dec 2017, 11:32 (Ref:3785238)   #3538
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Wow, who knew there was so much knowledge hidden away in HRT!
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Old 5 Dec 2017, 14:35 (Ref:3785255)   #3539
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As a matter of interest the BMW 850 coupe was the first CAN Bus vehicle to enter the market in 1986. By reducing the vehicles wiring by 2km, the vehicles overall weight was significantly reduced by at least 50kg and using only half the connectors. For the first time, each of the vehicles systems and sensors were able to communicate at very high speeds (25kbps - 1Mbps) on a single or dual-wire communication line as opposed to the previous multi-wire looms. However, the introduction of CAN Bus also increased the vehicles complexity and made after market installations even more difficult and in many cases impossible to perform.

I remember a customer of mine decided to put a bulb in his car instead of asking me (I would have done it for nothing) it was in a Volvo that ran the sidelights all the time the ignition is on, he put a single pole bulb in instead of a double pole that joined the two connectors together in the bulb holder and sent 12v back to the ECU, the car refused to start and was relayed to me and it took a fair bit of time to find out what was wrong. This was a long time ago before the firms that check and repair ECUs came on the scene and he had to get a new one from Volvos at £600 !

Last edited by GORDON STREETER; 5 Dec 2017 at 14:50.
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Old 5 Dec 2017, 14:58 (Ref:3785261)   #3540
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Well, I tried a few reet "tricks" but it wasn't responding to that.

Only one fuse location on this one - buried behind the glove box. OK if you are a supermidget but i could not get hand, light and line of sight to any of it through the access provided at the back of the glovebox. Decided against dismantling the dash in its entirety.

So returned to the boot and grappled with the the battery terminal. Didn't seem keen to come off at first and there is limited space to grip things and get a good tug. Loom in the way too.

Got it in the end. Left off for 3 or 4 mins, reconnected and everything came to life. Yippee!

Current History is gone of course but who cares ...

She had some concerns about the rear tyres or the MOT but I see at least 3+ mm so should be OK.

Radio/Info display that looked like it was "half full of water" according to SiL it just the bottom half of the screen's pixels not working.

Looks like about £190 to fix. 4x the cost of something similar on my Saab.

Thanks for all the help folks. All good advice that made me more comfortable mucking around with this thing. It's not even high spec. I hate to think what one might need to watch for on anything with all the toys.

No wonder modern card are so readily written off after small bumps. And insurance premiums keep rising.
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