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Old 17 Dec 2006, 12:24 (Ref:1792761)   #1
funformula
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How to remove paint from a carbonfibre monocoque?

What is the most effective but careful way to remove the paint from a carbonfibre monocoque?
Shotblasting with sand, glass, dry-ice, ...?
I heard that the Formula 1 teams remove the paint with sandingpaper before respraying the monocoques. The reason for that is the sensitivity of carbonfibre on waterabsorbation.
Does anyone has experience with this?
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Old 17 Dec 2006, 13:20 (Ref:1792832)   #2
JohnMiller
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DA.
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Old 17 Dec 2006, 18:18 (Ref:1792939)   #3
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DA.
It may not be the funniest post I have seen but is certainly the most obscure.

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Old 17 Dec 2006, 19:06 (Ref:1792976)   #4
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I think its a fairly obvious post and quite correct. Use a DA sander for quite some time. F1 teams have one advantage though, they use electrostatic painting so you end up with a lot less paint to take off.
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Old 17 Dec 2006, 20:34 (Ref:1793040)   #5
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Have experience with this. Acetone on a rag folded four times won't harm the epoxy and you will end up with a chemically free surface. And it doesn't put stress risers into the surface that sanding does. Will u be repainting or leaving a carbon finish? .........trikes
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Old 17 Dec 2006, 21:56 (Ref:1793110)   #6
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OK; the addition of "sander" gives Google enough to bite on. Why anyone might want to sand a Duck's ---- is still beyond me.

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Old 18 Dec 2006, 18:04 (Ref:1793833)   #7
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Originally Posted by trikesrule
Have experience with this. Acetone on a rag folded four times won't harm the epoxy and you will end up with a chemically free surface. And it doesn't put stress risers into the surface that sanding does. Will u be repainting or leaving a carbon finish? .........trikes
I don´t want to repaint the car. The carbon is looking fantastic.

My native language isn´t English, what means DA ?
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Old 18 Dec 2006, 18:25 (Ref:1793845)   #8
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Its a make of Orbital Sander.
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Old 18 Dec 2006, 18:28 (Ref:1793846)   #9
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Originally Posted by trikesrule
Have experience with this. Acetone on a rag folded four times won't harm the epoxy and you will end up with a chemically free surface. And it doesn't put stress risers into the surface that sanding do es. Will u be repainting or leaving a carbon finish? .........trikes
But it will take forever if the paint is a 2k,or for those who dont know Thermoplastic.
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Old 18 Dec 2006, 20:15 (Ref:1793971)   #10
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Terence could be right. Do u know what sort of paint is on it? ....trikes
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Old 18 Dec 2006, 22:15 (Ref:1794090)   #11
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The paint job was done properly by professionals, this was documented in an article in a tuning-magazine, so I guess its a 2K paint.
The car is the Reynard 913 which won the 1991 Monaco Formula 3 race with Jörg Müller. The car was repainted in 1993 in white/yellow Opel-Motorsport colours for being displayed in Japan.
If it´s impossible to remove all the paint, I would think about the original blue/yellow colour-scheme.
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Old 19 Dec 2006, 02:19 (Ref:1794238)   #12
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I've gone through this a few times and I agree to an extent that sanding is a good method...but I also have found that wallnut shell blasting works very well, the key though is to make sure your blaster is trained how to do it since if done incorrectly you can still damage the carbon you have to be very carefull and fight the urge to get greedy.
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Old 19 Dec 2006, 12:10 (Ref:1794591)   #13
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As the tub is 15 years old I would guess that the resin has cured as much as it ever will and will be completely inert, in which case a proprietary paint stripper based on dichloromethane will not do any harm if used sparingly.
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Old 19 Dec 2006, 16:40 (Ref:1794879)   #14
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out of interest what integrity tests do you do on a 15 year old tub?

Audi use a film instead of paint on the R10 - could make your life easier next time.
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Old 20 Dec 2006, 17:14 (Ref:1796029)   #15
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Originally Posted by ss_collins
out of interest what integrity tests do you do on a 15 year old tub?
What do you mean with integrity test? Can´t find a translation for that which is making sense for me.


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Audi use a film instead of paint on the R10 - could make your life easier next time.
The nose cover on my car was painted white and additionaly sealed with a white film. This happened back in 1993. Seems that they wanted to make their job 110% perfect.
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Old 21 Dec 2006, 08:20 (Ref:1796503)   #16
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When I was working in CART (1988-1998), we used several different media in a "blasting" process. They were crushed walnut shells, granular corn cob, soda & dry ice. Since meeting the minimum weight requirements were never a problem (we always had to add ballast) the paint shop would use a sandable PPG primer, wet sand it and then shoot the top coat. When they went to strip the top coat, by blasting, they wouldn't direct the nozzle perpendicular to the surface, rather at a ~20 - 40 degree angle to the surface and they would only remove most of the top coat, leaving the primer. They would then remove the rest by sanding.
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Old 23 Dec 2006, 21:57 (Ref:1798484)   #17
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by integrity I mean to check that the chassis has not aged, that there is no delamination or cracking anywhere in it, there are chassis makers who life tubs. One prominent firm said they do not like having people using their tubs for more than two years without a proper integrity check (which isn't that cheap).

Back on topic does stripping the paint damage the top layer at all? Also does the paint have any effect on the resin?
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Old 29 Dec 2006, 19:36 (Ref:1801411)   #18
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Reynard F3 tub paint removal

I removed years of colour changes on a 893 Reynard using water soluble Nitromors paint remover. there was no carbon or epoxy damage. It took ages as some areas had many coats and colour changes, but the end result was clean bare carbon. I reskinned the bonded and rivetted alloy floor of the tub, but if yours hasn't a full carbon floor be aware Nitromors will slowly corrode the alloy if not washed off properly. Hope this helps.
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