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Old 7 Aug 2009, 22:01 (Ref:2517591)   #1
haggispeed
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best (pop) rivets

Simple question really, what are the best quality rivets to use for panelling. I know there are variations in quality. I have in the past come across ones that are a real pig to drill out, usually the pin / nail is so hard the drill wanders off, are these the good ones or the cheap ones?
Looking on the web I see Cherry, Avdel, Huck under the aerospace sites. Need to use hand riveter, don't have facilities for special tooling, (although may have to consider an air riveter for doing a whole chassis)
Advice welcomed
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Old 7 Aug 2009, 22:41 (Ref:2517604)   #2
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Originally Posted by haggispeed View Post
Simple question really, what are the best quality rivets to use for panelling. I know there are variations in quality. I have in the past come across ones that are a real pig to drill out, usually the pin / nail is so hard the drill wanders off, are these the good ones or the cheap ones?
Looking on the web I see Cherry, Avdel, Huck under the aerospace sites. Need to use hand riveter, don't have facilities for special tooling, (although may have to consider an air riveter for doing a whole chassis)
Advice welcomed
The technology in manufacturing these days has rendered the `pop rivet' a commodity item. I would say that your requirements (material, size, etc.)would come first.

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Old 7 Aug 2009, 23:23 (Ref:2517621)   #3
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I have used loads of different ones over the years but I wouldn't know if they are price versus quality related.
What I have found is if you use ones that are too long for the job you will get more trouble with the nail snapping in the wrong place, this can also be caused by the holes being too large. They should break off so you can easily drill the flange side otherwise you can only grind them off.
Its well worth investing in a decent gun rather than one from the Sunday market for a couple of quid, and if you have loads to do a lazy tong cantilever type is more user friendly if you have the access to use it.
The air operated type obviously wont give you w*****s cramp but aren't any faster IMHO
This one is pretty good http://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acat...fo_pg206g.html it costs about £35
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Old 8 Aug 2009, 03:42 (Ref:2517681)   #4
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brand not so important

task dictates the rivet
1) proper length
2) material type, stainless or steel or aluminum
aluminum rivet can be purchased with aluminum pull or steel pull

always a good idea to use some bonding agent between the panels
in conjunction with the rivet
light aircraft specs either an epoxy or urethane resin
a thin double sided tape works well
3M has some very good tapes developed to hold together the Fiberglas bodies of large trucks
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Old 8 Aug 2009, 21:05 (Ref:2518096)   #5
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Thanks guys. I always use the right size rivet, after all who wants all that extra weight with an overlong rivet good point about the mandrel snapping in the wrong place though Gordon, thx, useful looking rivet gun too but I already have a CK one which I've used for a few years and has been excellent, it has 3 jaws instead of the usual two. I am goijng to be rebuilding a Clubmans car so plenty of panelling to do, floor, sides, internal etc, will all be Ally NS4 on to steel spaceframe. Interesting stuff about using a bonding agent, looking around the aircraft sites it seems they make non setting silicones for cabin panels. Anyone got any specific recommendations?
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Old 8 Aug 2009, 21:49 (Ref:2518132)   #6
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will all be Ally NS4 on to steel spaceframe. Interesting stuff about using a bonding agent, looking around the aircraft sites it seems they make non setting silicones for cabin panels. Anyone got any specific recommendations?
Not by trade name but you might insure that there is some type of isolation material between the steel & aluminum. Necessary to minimize galvanic corrosion. All the aero stuff probably has it.

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Old 9 Aug 2009, 05:22 (Ref:2518222)   #7
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Surprised no-one has mentioned the importance of de-burring all of the drill holes in the Ally,both sides,that is. Often ignored and the cause of panel's/rivets coming loose later on.
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Old 9 Aug 2009, 08:11 (Ref:2518258)   #8
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Structural rivets

The problem with a pop is nothing other than interference hold the centre in so they are not considered structural in an aircraft sense
When you remove a pop you should first tap the pul stem out, assuming the structure will allow a tap.
Now the aircraft industry tackled that 50+ years ago with the cherry loc a rivet that had a locking ring for the centre stem. These were structural rivets and avdel etc followed.
You needed special tooling they were a total pain to fit, everybody from boeing downwards hated them.
So for the military, and repair processes chery developed the cherry max which can be pulled with a very strong very smooth puller, normally air over hydraulic. There is a hand version but it is expensive and cherry max are several pence each.
So normal pops and glue are your best bet.
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Old 9 Aug 2009, 20:44 (Ref:2518459)   #9
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Thanks, agricola, I'm alwqys intersted to hear/read about new, to me, technology. Not that I'm likely to use aerospace type pop rivets, but anyway.

Here's all about Cherry rivets: http://www.peerlessaerospace.com/pub..._CHERRYMAX.pdf

Q: Why are US parts sized by No.? These are 4, 5, 6 or 8, which bear no relationship to a whole number of mms or fractions of an inch, except in thou. It's as bad as Standard Wire Guage: http://www.clag.org.uk/swg.html

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Old 9 Aug 2009, 21:13 (Ref:2518478)   #10
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Originally Posted by terence bower View Post
Surprised no-one has mentioned the importance of de-burring all of the drill holes in the Ally,both sides,that is. Often ignored and the cause of panel's/rivets coming loose later on.
Because we were just waiting for you to "pop" in and mention it
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Old 10 Aug 2009, 05:16 (Ref:2518580)   #11
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What,into this 'rivetting' conversation?
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Old 10 Aug 2009, 17:06 (Ref:2518950)   #12
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the 4 5 etc refers to 32s so 4 32 is 1/8 of an inch as simple as that simular to hydaulic pipe with dash6 etc.
Avoid cherry loc like the plague but cherrymax if you can afford and pull them are the mutts nuts
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