Engine oils in Racing

[Francisknight]

Hello to all.

My post comes in relation to any input or thoughts anyone here may be able to offer in regards to engine oils that you have either had good or bad experience within this related felid.

Over the last few years I have devoted masses of time in to my own research of engine oils. I have spoken to various people from racing teams to chemists from all over the world trying to develop a deep understanding for engine oils. I'm also a very keen student of engine assembly and Blue Printing with a passion for Motorsports.

I'm trying find out as much information as I can for own satisfaction regarding the use of either Mineral or Synthetic oils in V8 engines and if you are able to say what type of oils are commonly used in your related field.
Over the years I have been collecting as much information as possible and have found a high amount of people are still preferring the use of quality mineral oils over synthetics in Push Rod style engines.

I understand some may not be able to devolve company secrets and perhaps may also be bound by sponsorship, but I would be really appreciative of any information, experience or feedback relating to the type of oils you use or hear about being used.

I also was wanted to ask if anyone has had any thoughts or experience with any of the high end Synthetic's like Redline and Amsoil in Push Rod V8's with Rollers and / or Flat Tappet cams.
A
gain thanks for your time and any input you can offer.
Regards,
Francis.

[graham bahr]

generally mineral oils are thicker, and also generally push rod engines are old designs with big running clearances therefore the two go togther

[GORDON STREETER]

Francisknight Hello there You may not have noticed a thread still on here that may help.

[bentate]

Had HSV's for 13 years and always used Mobil1, now SuperSyn. Never had a seconds trouble. Had two LS1's and an LS2 and never used a teaspoon of oil. The oil at oil changes is always clear and still honey coloured.

I think a lot has to do with simply servicing your car regularly. Cheap oil changed regularly is still better than expensive oil changed less frequently.

I know HRT use standard Mobil 1 because I've seen them fill engines straight from the same drum you and I can buy.

After the oil running up well over 150 degrees at Bathurst a few years ago, what better advert for how good this stufff is could you get?

[Peddler]

I have a mate who has a picture of a mechanic wearing "Castrol" overalls behind the old pits at Bathurst pouring the contents of a Penzoil container into a Castrol drum.

Funny thing... i have never used Castrol since even though my engine builder also loves the stuff hehe

[sereneseven]

Mobile 1 is a pretty accepted standard among most of the Grand-am paddock including(roushyates,Dinan,porsche).

[Notso Swift]

That happens when you don't pay for stuff.
It also happens when you only require a motor to last a couple of 1000 between re-freshes and you are willing to sacrifice for the ultimate in performance. That doesn't make the produce better or worse, just that it fits a particular purpose differently.

[sereneseven]

Originally Posted by Notso Swift

That happens when you don't pay for stuff.
It also happens when you only require a motor to last a couple of 1000 between re-freshes and you are willing to sacrifice for the ultimate in performance. That doesn't make the produce better or worse, just that it fits a particular purpose differently.

I am a little lost on your reply....the question was about oils used in racing...racing =sacrifice for the ultimate in performance. also just what do you think is being sacrificed by using mobil 1? if I said redline ultra light than I would agree since u might aswell just put wd-40 in. but I don't see the downside of mobil one unless you consider no gearbox or engine issues during a 24race a downside or not enough of a test in its longevity and ability to due its intended job.?????????????

[AU N EGL]

I use M1 15-w50 and I pay for it. I change my oil every 2 event weekends. About every 500 miles. Send the oil off for analyses every other change.

Each winter I pull the heads, and inspect the valves and springs, replace if necessay, only once in 3 years.

PPL use M1 as it is very easy to get anyplace, not because they get it free, most teams dont get free oil.

Redline, Amsoil, RP and other oils are great oils, just not always easy to get without buying them mailorder. and sometimes that is just a pia. if you need to make a change NOW or at the track for some reason or another. With M1 you just go into town and buy a case of 15-w50, 10w30 or 0-w40 ( porsches) is easy to get in quantites.

I use M1 gear oil in the diff and M1 ATF in the trans.


The other challange is some ppl go way too long between oil changes. Your street / normal car is differnet. That car does not produce the heat and abuse of a race car.

[JohnD]

Changing the subject a little, to gearbox oils.
Recently, on classic car sites, the use of heavy, SAE90 "Hypoid" type oil in gearboxes has been said to be unnecessary. The MG factory are said to have recommended engine oil in their gearboxes unlike, say, Triumph.

Any classic racers out there? What do you use?

John

[MGDavid]

yep, the MG Midget (1275 A series) was spec'ed for the same 20/50 as the engine. I used 10/50 Mobil 1 for a season, now I'm using a 5/40 mineral oil.

[terence]

Motul do some excellent transmission Oil,s. I,ve been using Enduro in the diff[LS] ,no complaints at all.The gearbox Oil gets left in for a season,no complaints from me or the box!! Car is FIA MGB.

[davyboy]

I used to use Castrol R40 in my full race A-series... same stuff I used when I raced 100cc karts. It was fantastic and smelt great too.

[norman-normal]

I raced Triumph TR-3. All British cars of the 50's 60' era that were equipped with the electronic O/Drive required 30W.
Virtually all statements about which (racing) oil is best are based on belief and trust. I feel that any oil that is widely used and has not developed a bad reputation is a safe bet.

[R59]

I have two V8 beasties here.

The "primary" car is an ASA Tour spec car, with a 430bhp Chevy LS1 / Vortec ASA motor. That's lubed by 5W30 synthetic (currently using Pennzoil) and I have noticed that it runs 20degF cooler with that, compared to running Millers mineral oil.

The other "animal" is my Thundersaloon which runs a 6.7L 700bhp roller tappet Chevy, 18deg Chevy Motorsport/Ron Hutter CNC heads, all steel internals, Dart spreadrail alloy block. Like most "old" Chevy motors, keeping oil in it is the job for a couple of 200gm tubes of RTV!! Therefore, I use Valvoline VR1 20/50 mineral.

What you should always understand is that oil is cheaper than engines!

In the gearbox, I use 75W90 synthetic. In the Diff/axle I use 75W140 synthetic - The ASA car has a Jerico 4 speed, with a Winters rear end fitted with a Detroit Locker, the Thundersaloon has a Muncie M22 with a Strange 9" axle with TrueTorq diff.

In another car (1300cc Vauxhall) I ran Mobil1 5W30, with Slick50, and found it a very good combination. I used Slick50 in the gearbox until I added a ZF plate diff, then I changed to a F86B spec gear oil (with diff additive built in).

[Jeff 8]

Not sure if you want info on bike engines as well, but I run a CBR1000 in a sidecar. I have used ULX110 20w50 as recommended by the engine builder and one engine did three seasons with nothing done to it and my newer engine has done two seasons. This is an eternity in sidecar racing, most rebuild twice per season. I have been tempted to try different oils but the record keeps me to the same oil. I don't know if the oil is the cause of such longevity but it can't hurt.

Jeff

[xr8]

Jeff! What brand of oil is that? We with bike engines have to be carefull as we run a wet clutch and if we run full synthetic oils such as mobil 1 we run the risk of clutch slippage.

[Jeff 8]

XR8, the oil is called ULX110, that is to be the brand name, I get it from a sports car place on the northern beaches. I used to get it from the bloke who built the engine in Adelaide. It's a mineral oil and I replace it every second race meeting, mainly because of clutch residue in the oil.

In my road bikes I use synthetic oils, mainly Motul and have no clutch problems.

Jeff

[JohnD]

Just discovered a good reason for using different oil in engine and gearbox.

Car 'grenaded', cabin full of smoke, closely following cars come in to pits for trouser changes.
I'm towed back, expecting that my weekend is finished - Chief Engineer sniffs and says, "That's gearbox oil that is!"

And it was, and we had a spare, so back for the next race!

Thanks, CE!

John

[Notso Swift]

I've lost a gearbox and confused the oil more than once, unfortunate it was on my old mini